'07 Idle Issues
Thread Starter
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Yes, and I've been in denial, mostly because I don't want to fool with changing it. A re-flash is much easier, but I'm not betting it fixed the idling problems.
Can you get to the two IAC bolts by raising the tank? It looks like a matter of two bolts and one electrical plug. The manual says to remove the entire induction module.
Can you get to the two IAC bolts by raising the tank? It looks like a matter of two bolts and one electrical plug. The manual says to remove the entire induction module.
Thread Starter
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Update: The 32903-07E re-flash did not fix either my high- or low-idle problem, so I wouldn't recommend that anyone bother with it. Besides, if you had EITMS before you won't have it after the "upgrade." I'm not sure what the -07E upgrade did, as my PCV-AT trim table doesn't look much different than before, indicating the AFRs dictated by the ECM is the same or very similar.
Today I decided the problem was a faulty or dirty IAC valve, which is what Dawg suggested early in the thread. Instead of replacing it just yet I decided to try removing and cleaning it first, but even after raising the tank I couldn't get to the inner IAC screw to remove it. It's a Torx bit and even using a small bit inserted in a ź" box-end wrench and taped in place I didn't have enough room to remove it, at least not without taking all day doing it.
So, instead of removing it to clean the IAC manifold orifice, I just sprayed some WD-40 directly into it and swabbed it with a Q-tip. I also turned on the ignition switch and toggled the kill switch to activate the IAC motor while spraying. There was enough black goop that dripped down and wiped onto the Q-tip to make me think this might actually help. It tends to gunk up because of the oil introduced by the breather, and if this is the fix it may be that a periodic cleaning is necessary, which would be a painless effort. Just remove the AC cover and filter for access to the orifice, located outside the butterfly at 12 o'clock, and spray some penetrant or solvent in it using one of those long red sprayer nozzles that come with most of these products.
I'll be back in due time to report whether or not this worked.
Today I decided the problem was a faulty or dirty IAC valve, which is what Dawg suggested early in the thread. Instead of replacing it just yet I decided to try removing and cleaning it first, but even after raising the tank I couldn't get to the inner IAC screw to remove it. It's a Torx bit and even using a small bit inserted in a ź" box-end wrench and taped in place I didn't have enough room to remove it, at least not without taking all day doing it.
So, instead of removing it to clean the IAC manifold orifice, I just sprayed some WD-40 directly into it and swabbed it with a Q-tip. I also turned on the ignition switch and toggled the kill switch to activate the IAC motor while spraying. There was enough black goop that dripped down and wiped onto the Q-tip to make me think this might actually help. It tends to gunk up because of the oil introduced by the breather, and if this is the fix it may be that a periodic cleaning is necessary, which would be a painless effort. Just remove the AC cover and filter for access to the orifice, located outside the butterfly at 12 o'clock, and spray some penetrant or solvent in it using one of those long red sprayer nozzles that come with most of these products.
I'll be back in due time to report whether or not this worked.
Last edited by iclick; Jun 26, 2010 at 03:17 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,977
Likes: 85
From: Nevada
Update: The 32903-07E re-flash did not fix either my high- or low-idle problem, so I wouldn't recommend that anyone bother with it. Besides, if you had EITMS before you won't have it after the "upgrade." I'm not sure what the -07E upgrade did, as my PCV-AT trim table doesn't look much different than before, indicating the AFRs dictated by the ECM is the same or very similar.
Today I decided the problem was a faulty or dirty IAC valve, which is what Dawg suggested early in the thread. Instead of replacing it just yet I decided to try removing and cleaning it first, but even after raising the tank I couldn't get to the inner IAC screw to remove it. It's a Torx bit and even using a small bit inserted in a ź" box-end wrench and taped in place I didn't have enough room to remove it, at least not without taking all day doing it.
So, instead of removing it to clean the IAC manifold orifice, I just sprayed some WD-40 directly into it and swabbed it with a Q-tip. I also turned on the ignition switch and toggled the kill switch to activate the IAC motor while spraying. There was enough black goop that dripped down and wiped onto the Q-tip to make me think this might actually help. It tends to gunk up because of the oil introduced by the breather, and if this is the fix it may be that a periodic cleaning is necessary, which would be a painless effort. Just remove the AC cover and filter for access to the orifice, located outside the butterfly at 12 o'clock, and spray some penetrant or solvent in it using one of those long red sprayer nozzles that come with most of these products.
I'll be back in due time to report whether or not this worked.
Today I decided the problem was a faulty or dirty IAC valve, which is what Dawg suggested early in the thread. Instead of replacing it just yet I decided to try removing and cleaning it first, but even after raising the tank I couldn't get to the inner IAC screw to remove it. It's a Torx bit and even using a small bit inserted in a ź" box-end wrench and taped in place I didn't have enough room to remove it, at least not without taking all day doing it.
So, instead of removing it to clean the IAC manifold orifice, I just sprayed some WD-40 directly into it and swabbed it with a Q-tip. I also turned on the ignition switch and toggled the kill switch to activate the IAC motor while spraying. There was enough black goop that dripped down and wiped onto the Q-tip to make me think this might actually help. It tends to gunk up because of the oil introduced by the breather, and if this is the fix it may be that a periodic cleaning is necessary, which would be a painless effort. Just remove the AC cover and filter for access to the orifice, located outside the butterfly at 12 o'clock, and spray some penetrant or solvent in it using one of those long red sprayer nozzles that come with most of these products.
I'll be back in due time to report whether or not this worked.
Also there's another thread on here, I think about cleaning the throttle body for a better idle. Same deal, remove the ac open the butterfly then swab with a drenched in cleaner paper towel. Might be a better way but that was the suggestion.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 783
Likes: 66
From: Sacramento
I've run through more than 3 tanks of gas since my reflash. My low idle problem is gone and has not returned. The intermittent popping out of the exhaust when the idle problem would occur is also gone. Prior to the reflash, I replaced the TPS and thought I had the problem licked but within 75-80 miles, it happened again. I checked and adjusted the TPS voltage (by adjusting the throttle plate setting) to .573 volts, cleaned the throttle body, the IAC port and the idle problem was still there. It was only after the reflash that the problem seems to be resolved. Just wanted you all to know, it seems to have worked for my problem.
Thread Starter
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Well, I've ridden the bike maybe 10 miles since cleaning the IAC area and both high- and low-idle problems did crop-up once in that short time span--so the cleaning idea apparently didn't work. I'll give it more time to clean itself, but I'm thinking the only real option remaining is Dawg's suggestion to replace the IAC, and that will require removing the induction module.
I may also replace the manifold seals while in there, as my old Evo needed them replaced about every 30k and I'm at 37k now. OTOH, these idle issues don't amount to anything that is causing any real problems and is mostly just an aggravation that doesn't occur that often.
I may also replace the manifold seals while in there, as my old Evo needed them replaced about every 30k and I'm at 37k now. OTOH, these idle issues don't amount to anything that is causing any real problems and is mostly just an aggravation that doesn't occur that often.
Last edited by iclick; Jun 27, 2010 at 12:10 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 783
Likes: 66
From: Sacramento
Well, I've ridden the bike maybe 10 miles since cleaning the IAC area and both high- and low-idle problems did crop-up once in that short time span--so the cleaning idea apparently didn't work. I'll give it more time to clean itself, but I'm thinking the only real option remaining is Dawg's suggestion to replace the IAC, and that will require removing the intake module.
I may also replace the manifold seals while in there, as my old Evo needed them replaced about every 30k and I'm at 37k now. OTOH, these idle issues don't amount to anything that is causing any real problems and is mostly just an aggravation that doesn't occur that often.
I may also replace the manifold seals while in there, as my old Evo needed them replaced about every 30k and I'm at 37k now. OTOH, these idle issues don't amount to anything that is causing any real problems and is mostly just an aggravation that doesn't occur that often.
Thread Starter
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Yeah, at 36k, I may want to replace the manifold and injector seals just for GP. While I'm there, the IAC isn't very expensive compared to the labor to get there and I'll probably replace that at the same time. No need to risk an intake leak which will cause all sorts of crap down the road.
I just took a nice hot ride to check things out and had no idle issues at all, the first time in a week or two. I changed spark plugs this AM, but I wouldn't expect that to change anything. That one favorable experience means nothing, however, as I've had it go weeks without any issues, then have one or maybe 10 in the course of the next week.
Last edited by iclick; Jun 27, 2010 at 02:48 PM.
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Cleaned the IAC a week ago, just as everyone has suggested. Pulled the breather and sprayed the IAC port and swabbed everything out. Seemed to help for a couple of tanks of fuel, but went on a 800 mile trip this weekend and had both the low and high idle issue while gone. First time for the high idle in a long while. Had to shut the bike down to get ride of it. Haven't had a chance to look into the re-flash Mongomark had luck with.
Thread Starter
|
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Cleaned the IAC a week ago, just as everyone has suggested. Pulled the breather and sprayed the IAC port and swabbed everything out. Seemed to help for a couple of tanks of fuel, but went on a 800 mile trip this weekend and had both the low and high idle issue while gone. First time for the high idle in a long while. Had to shut the bike down to get ride of it. Haven't had a chance to look into the re-flash Mongomark had luck with.
I wouldn't bother with the re-flash to -07E, as it did nothing for my problem.