Did you find out what modifications the reflash makes to the ECM?

 

No. I called HD CS and they wouldn't transfer me to anyone knowledgeable. I didn't expect them to, but it was worth a try.
My local trusted tech didn't know either. Based on the trims produced by the PCV-AT I don't see any noticeable AFR changes either, and since it didn't make any difference in my idle issues I wouldn't recommend it if that's all you want to accomplish.

 

Thanks. Nope I don't want it.

 

Well, I replaced my IAC motor yesterday. The inside screw is very hard to get to, but I was about to get it by jacking the tank up about 1" and using a ź" ratchet and ź"-drive Torx bit. However, I decided to do it by the book by removing the induction module and change the manifold seals while I has at it, and that turned out to be a four-hour job. Much of that time was trying to remove the four manifold bolts, and no conventional tool I had would get to the two left side bolts. On the right, only some very long (~4") ball-end Allens with a universal-joint attached could access them. Pure PITA. For the left, I ended up altering two Allen wrenches by bending and grinding (Dremel) and finally got them out. Had I known what a problem it would be I would've left the seals alone, but once I got started I kept going. If you go this route, which I don't recommend for just changing the IAC motor unless you can't get it out any other way, don't bother with pulling the fuse and purging the fuel lines as prescribed in the manual. I just wrapped the quick-connector with a rag and disconnected it, losing a few drops in the process. No big deal.

Be forewarned that the diagram in the '07 manual (Figure 4-29, Induction Module Assembly) suggests that the bracket fits under the IAC motor, but it does not. It goes over the module, so watch how it comes apart, not what it looks like in this diagram (see attached).

I'm not sure what the result was yet, as when I first cranked it this morning the engine jumped to 3000 RPM, and I quickly turned it off. The second crank a few seconds later it idled normally, but on a quick ride to Wal-Mart (6-mile round trip) I suffered from bad idle and rough running at low-RPM and it almost stalled twice, but on the way back it seemed to straighten out. A short time later I made another trip, about 20 miles total, and it ran perfect. I wonder if it had some air in the lines, as I had the short fuel line from the induction module to the quick-release connector removed on both ends. I haven't cranked it cold since the first time, so the second time will be revealing.

I'll know more after a few days of riding, but this might've fixed the problem. I'm optimistic but won't declare a verdict just yet. Anybody else make any progress?

Updates:

07/04: Took another short ride. Running perfect and I'm cautiously optimistic.

07/05: Still running perfect! I'm convinced the initial rough running was due to air remaining in the fuel lines, which was purged after about 3 miles of riding. My theory on the initial high idle was that the IAC motor was probably set in a default position allowing full flow through the orifice, which would've slowly moved to a normal idle had I not immediately turned the engine off.

 

Hello: My name is Tom, live in Wy. I have a 07 FXDCI bought it new it is stock other than SE air filter. It sarted doing the same thing high idle when I got to work , and died at every stop on the way home.

 

Hello: iclick I would like to through a thought your way , If it is ok ! I have an intergrated crank breather , dont know if everyone that is having idle problems have the same type of breather or not? All that oil puking into the throttle body cant be good. I had my air cleaner apart and the breather is maybe 10 oclock and 2 oclock the iac is 12 oclock. I can see why the iac wont work. All the sensors that are in the throttle body may be getting temporarily messed up? I have read lot of threads it happens high mph. The back pressure at this speed could be puking enough to coat everything in the throttle body. So Im going to get a new air cleaner and vent the crank breather out and try that ! Thanks for listening

 

iclick - I cleaned my IAC simply sprayed it with throttle body cleaner while toggling the on-off switch covering the intake with a rag. Ideal was fine for 3 days (a few hundred miles) and the problem came back. I called the dealer since it is under warranty with the holiday weekend coming up they were slammed and asked I bring it in the first of the week. So I Q-tip cleaned it and gave it a good blast of throttle body cleaner once again. I drove 560 miles this weekend without a single stall. Dealer tells me it needs to be happening when I bring it in for them find the problem. To me it seems obvious that the IAC is the problem and I’m wondering if replacement is the best option. I did just turn 36000 miles my question is clean or replace? Hope you will keep us informed iclick.

 

You may be on to something.
It at least makes sense, given the only thing that "should be" getting to the IAC at that point is clean air. Why else would you need to clean it out?
Good point!
My question - given this logic - why only the 07"s?

Just answered my own ???. The 08's and newer have a redesigned induction module to accommodate TBW! Just saw it on the 2008 tech bulletin.
Hmmmmm - getting more interesting!

 

Just wanted to provide another update after the re-flash. The problem has not resurfaced. I now have slightly more than 1000 miles since the flash. My idle used to drop down and damn near stall and I knew it was gonna happen because it'd start popping more under decel when coming to that stop. I don't know all of the factors that were revised under the reflash, but the bike runs better and seems to be smoother since the change.

 

Have 06 FXSTI it has the same induction setup but with stock filter. Not so much oil not to mention air is getting in. I dont know if the 06 FXSTI would do the same if I was to put the SE air on it? It might be just the compression difference or back pressure between the 88" and 97" not so much pukin ?