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Had them all, crappy running and poor idle with my o7 RKCustom, "all gone now". I gave up after three times returning to Harley-Davidson shop to get bike tuned right, HD techs. don't really have the alloted time to perform what it takes to do tuning right. Then my friend goes and buys a dyno, took $15000 dollars worth of courses and then planted a dyno in his garage a year later. The reason my bike runs so well now is he add TTS performance programing to ECM, spent over well 8 hours, racking up about 90 miles on my bike on his dyno. YIKES dose my bike run good and idle now, with noticable mileage increase. So moral of story, it's about who tunes yur bike and their knowledge,to sometimes tricking the computer to get awesome results that makes bike run good at any rpm. PS my friend is very very busy now in his garage. guess what he is doing right now and having fun at it.
I had water in my TPS so it didnt mater what I set it at it still wouldnt idle down. I replaced my TPS and it had water damage( rust and corosion in the sensor". 28 bucks and 30,000 miles later and all is good. Hope that helps.
Thanks man. I was leaning towards that. After i readjust tomorrow, if that doesn't fix it, I'm ordering a TPS.
I know this is an old thread, but I just started having a low idle issue - my '07 has had an intermittent low idle that cleared itself up the first few times it happened. Now it flat out won't idle at all and nearly dies every time I stop. I did the IAC cycle/cleaning procedure last night, but nothing other than clear fliud ran out - I think I need to blast it some more because all of you stated a bunch of black crap came out when you did this. My initial cleaning last night did stop the jump to 2K when first started, and it idled cold just fine, but when warm, it started idling low again.
If cleaning doesn't work and I need to replace the IAC, does the throttle body need to come off to change the valve?
I had my ecm reflashed and my idle problems are gone. I replaced my tps, cleaned the iac and throttle body to no avail. I've got better than 6k miles after the fix and the low idle problems have never returned. I mentioned this in one of my prior posts in this thread quite some time ago. If all else fails, it could help. Good luck, I know this is a PI the A$$
Same issue. After riding maybe 10 minutes, I hear back fire when changing gears and I know it's happening again. I have on 07 FLHT but a buddy has an 07 Heritage with the same proble. It will ruff idle then die but it will start back up and as l;ong as I work the throttle it will run. After a while it will return ti a smooth idle around 800 rpm. The local HD blew me off but I guess I need to let them have it for a few days. There goes all my beer money.
Mongomark: Guessing your issues were from the service bulletin about idling? I am running a PC III USB, but the stock ECM is still hooked up and I am guessing if I need the service bulletin flash I would still be subject to idle issues. How much was it to have the flash applied?
TPS is throttle position sensor, correct? I thought about replacing the IAC and possibly the TPS as well, but the IAC cycles (moves) so not sure how else I would check to see if it's bad.
Mine idles really high after Ive been on the highway for a bit. When I come to the end of the off ramp the bike stays idled up WAY high for about a minute before it drops back down. Or I can just turn the bike off and start it right back up no problem. You guys know what to do about that?
I had my ecm reflashed and my idle problems are gone. I replaced my tps, cleaned the iac and throttle body to no avail. I've got better than 6k miles after the fix and the low idle problems have never returned. I mentioned this in one of my prior posts in this thread quite some time ago. If all else fails, it could help. Good luck, I know this is a PI the A$$
Dealer re-flashed mine too well over a year ago. It had got so bad I had the feather the throttle at EVERY stop. No more stalling (thank god!) but, rear cyl. no longer cuts out when the bike gets hot either.
If cleaning doesn't work and I need to replace the IAC, does the throttle body need to come off to change the valve?
You can jack the tank up and remove the IAC without removing the TB, but only if you have a Torx setup that will provide exactly the right clearance for the rear bolt. It is very tight and I was lucky in that I had a socket and ź" ratchet with just the right height to both fit in the area and provide enough clearance to screw it all the way out. It is Loctited, of course, and I had to keep wrenching on it 'til it was completely out. The front bolt is not a problem.
The first time I worked on the IAC I did remove the TB, but I also wanted to change the intake seals. I had 37k on the bike at the time and my experience with my last bike (Evo) was that intake seals needed to be replaced about every 30-35k. I must say that it is a real PITA job, as the Allen intake bolts are very hard to access, and one or two of them required me to fabricate (Dremel) a shorter wrench for clearance. OTOH if you can access the IAC rear bolt and don't yet have a leaky intake seal I would go the easy route.
Since replacing the IAC my idle problems have largely disappeared. Gone is the high-idle when cold, and I've had it happen maybe 3-4 times since last July, and only when warm. Low-idle was never a big problem and I don't recall this happening at all since the IAC replacement. I did try all the usual tricks like cleaning the IAC and flashing to the latest firmware before doing the replacement, but nothing worked.
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