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'07 Idle Issues

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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #181  
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soft 02
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MotorSgt. Mine did exactly the same thing comming off the freeway and at startup. For me the TPS was the issue. 28 bucks.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #182  
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OK, so did the cleaning once more and still no crap came out, only clean carb cleaner. That makes twice and the same behavior. Tomorrow will be the test I guess - if this doesn't fix the idle issue, does the throttle body need to be removed to change the IAC valve? Looks kind of tight in there. I'll check with the dealer on the technical bulletin about idling and see if my bike was done. Guess it could be that too. This is frustrating.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #183  
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i posted earlier, tps sensor adjustment screw backed out ,do not try and adjust it bike has to be hooked up to digital technition,screw is adjusted to a voltage reading. it is not a idol screw.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:09 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by bigdumbnoitall00
i posted earlier, tps sensor adjustment screw backed out ,do not try and adjust it bike has to be hooked up to digital technition,screw is adjusted to a voltage reading. it is not a idol screw.
I posted ealier in this thread about something like this happening, and bike went WOT. Im glad I had the dealer in york fix it for 70 bucks.

reciently on my 07 I did bb/cam and did clean the TD with carb cleaner. Used a TTS tuner and so far have noticed that idle is noticeably better then stock or stage one dyno. time will tell but feel this is worthy of mentioning that there may be other things going on.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 08:07 AM
  #185  
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Well, it idles and I'm stoked. At least it idled today. Normally by the time I hit the subdivision gate from the house, which is about 1/4 mile, it won't idle, and by the time I get to work (18 miles), it's still the same and I have to keep the throttle up to keep it alive. Today it sat at 950-1000, if you believe the guage, but didn't stumble and nearly die like it's been doing the past couple of days. So, maybe blasting the living crap twice, out of the IAC valve did the trick. Time will tell

I also got to thinking, does doing the throttle position "zero" procedure on the PCIII have any bearing on this or does the 0% throttle position already take into consideration the idle speed? In other words, does 1% throttle position mean 1% over and above idle? It seems like that's how it works since it idles normally at 0% throttle position. My idling issue started just after I did the PCIII idle zeroing procedure. Prior, my throttle position at idle was 3%, now it is 0% as recommended.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #186  
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69cj here ya go.dealer my bike went has seen this b4 theiry is the non exsistant heat issuies melt the loctite off the tps screw letting it vibrate in or out.really goofs the ecm. stalling high or low or eratic idol.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:14 AM
  #187  
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My 2007 Road King did exactly the same thing
Idled at 2000rpm one day then all but stalled the next day.
Took a gamble and threw the PCIII away and put a SERT on and never had another problem with it for the next 25000 miles.
Lost 2HP and 3F/P of torque but bike ran genuinely better.
There ya have it
Oz Dave
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #188  
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Default airr/idle issue

After reading a few forums about the idle, I pulled the high flow air cleaner off and found that it had been damaged when improperly installed at the dealer causing the rubber seal to disintegrate and possibly even ingesting small portions. While it was off I used some throttle body spray cleaner to soak the inside and wipe off some of the residue from the oily air. I rode about 4 hours the next day and never had any idle issues. That's not say it won't come back, but just to say "Thanks" for all the helpful info I got from HD Forum.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by iclick
....
In my case the bike will occasionally--maybe once every couple of weeks in winter, less-often in summer--start-up idling at around 2000 rpms. This started late last summer. No amount of throttle blipping will make it idle down to its usual 950 rpms, and if I don't stop the bike it will stay idling at that level until I turn it off. Usually I can turn it off at the handlebar switch, then off at the ignition switch, and when restarted will usually idle normally for the rest of the day and probably for quite a few days thereafter. For me it is more of an irritation than a real problem.
This is exactly the problem I'm having with my 07 Night Train. It seems to happen more and more often. When the bike is cold I will start it up and it will get stuck at a high idle (seems like 200 rpm or so). The only way to stop it is to kill the bike and then when I re0start is usually idles fine.

I have also had the bike sound like it is going to lope to a stop after some periods of extended running, usually it recovers.

My only mods are the screaming eagle air cleaner , stage one download and Vanc & Hines exhaust.

I'm going to try cleaning the IAC via squirting it with carb cleaner. If that doesn't work it sounds like I'll need to have it replaced.

EDIT: The bike has about 36,000 miles
 

Last edited by IGOTTASRT8; Mar 1, 2011 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 10:24 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by IGOTTASRT8
This is exactly the problem I'm having with my 07 Night Train. It seems to happen more and more often. When the bike is cold I will start it up and it will get stuck at a high idle (seems like 200 rpm or so). The only way to stop it is to kill the bike and then when I re0start is usually idles fine.

I have also had the bike sound like it is going to lope to a stop after some periods of extended running, usually it recovers.

My only mods are the screaming eagle air cleaner , stage one download and Vanc & Hines exhaust.

I'm going to try cleaning the IAC via squirting it with carb cleaner. If that doesn't work it sounds like I'll need to have it replaced.

EDIT: The bike has about 36,000 miles
I tried the spray routine and it didn't work, at least not for long. I eventually replaced the IAC motor (~$40) and that did it. I've had the fast-idle maybe three times since then except not as high and only when hot. This part can be changed without removing the throttle body as prescribed in the manual, which is a PITA. For the back bolt you'll need a ź-in. ratchet and a Torx socket exactly the right height to clear, yet have enough room to be removed once the bolt is out, and there is very little room. Miraculously, my tools fit perfectly. The bolts are Loctited in so removal with fingers once loosened wasn't possible on mine. An essential step is to remove all three tank bolts and pull it up as far as it will go for more clearance. Be careful, as the fuel line can be damaged while moving the tank around. You could pull it out to be safe, but I didn't.
 
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