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'07 Idle Issues

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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
A-men I click. Mine never threw a code but for 28 bucks i gave it a try and it worked. Took it apart and found water and rust that must have came through the butterfly seal.
I can't see how water could get through from the outside, as there's an o-ring that seals it. It would seem that water through the intake would cause the bike to stall, however. I didn't see any rust or water in mine, but it seemed like the mechanism was rather loose. That was the hardest problem to diagnose I've ever encountered on any car or motorcycle in >45 years of messing with both.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #202  
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I ride in the rain 70+ mph all winter and when she would bog from water intrusion into the air cleaner I would just down shift. Not talking light sprinkles either. Now I put the football cover on for winter. live and learn.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by iclick
After all this ado about IAC motors, cleaning and changing mine yet having the idle issues repeatedly return, I think all my problems were tied to the TPS (throttle position sensor). My problem kept going away yet always returning, but about two months ago got worse making the bike almost unrideable and finally throwing a code that showed the TPS was failing. I changed the TPS ($31) five weeks ago and haven't had the first issue since that time.
Just wondering...how hard is it to change the TPS? Any special or 'modified' tools necessary? Can it be done without removing the induction module?

I'm getting ready to change the IAC motor...may just do the TPS also. My issues are always occasional/random low idle & stall.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:29 PM
  #204  
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Pretty easy. You got some trox bits and a driver. No adjustment and dont have to remove anything but the connector.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by hdramon07
Just wondering...how hard is it to change the TPS? Any special or 'modified' tools necessary? Can it be done without removing the induction module?
Yes, it's easy except for the inside bolt, which is tough to get to. I took a T-handle Allen wrench and bent it to fit in that tight area. Take a look and you'll see what I mean. Once you've conquered that issue it's a very quick and easy install.

I'm getting ready to change the IAC motor...may just do the TPS also. My issues are always occasional/random low idle & stall.
The induction module doesn't need to be removed to remove/install the IAC motor, contrary to the service manual instructions. The same issue as with the TPS applies here, which is the inside Torx bolt. If you have a ź"-drive ratchet and Torx bit just the right height to fit in yet allow the bolt to be removed you've got it made. The problem is that the bolt is Locktited and you'll likely not be able to remove it without the ratchet in place for the entire movement, and the working area is tight. Mine just happened to fit, so I was lucky. I would also advise changing the Torx bolt with an Allen or hex-head if the opportunity presents itself, as that would be easier to access.

Removing the induction module is a royal PITA and I would avoid it at all costs. If you do, be sure to change the intake seals too.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #206  
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I took a 1/4 ratchet wrench and a spare torx bit and ground about a 1/4 inch of the end of the bit to clear the fins
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by eddfive
The other option is to use any of the tuning software packages like TTS, Direct Link, SERT or SEST as they all have this IAC software table and they all have diagnostic capability to read the strepper counts so they can be adjusted. This would allow the software and IAC to be closely matched.
I have a TTS tuning module. Could you please instruct me how to use the TTS IAC software to correct my issues described below?

Thank you

Bike:2007 Softail Custom, 12K miles, Stage I & pipes (no Power Commander, etc.). That's it.

Bike ran great for the past 10K miles, not even a hiccup. With HD oil cooler, oil temps run ~200* and rarely get above 240*, even in the hottest of conditions.

Fresh plugs & all fluids 2K miles ago.

Complaint: Bike has an intermittent high idle. Sometimes you can snap the throttle back to normal RPM, sometimes not.

Also, this is usually followed by a low idle/stalling condition which occurs while stopped at a red light with the clutch pulled in.

At this point, when it stalls, you have to start the bike with the throttle partially cracked, and manually keep it running by working the wick, or else it won't stay lit.

The bike always seems to run fine for about an hour, then it gets hot and the problems show up.

Even with these issues present, the bike runs fast & strong with no misfiring, pops, etc.


1) Yesterday: Disconnected both throttle & idle cables. There is absolutely no mechanical interference when working the throttle body manually, nice & smooth throughout the entire range.

Cables lubed up and adjusted properly. Again, nice & smooth.

Throttle body thoroughly cleaned and IAC replaced.

After all this, checked for codes and code 'P0374 crankshaft position sensor not detected, cannot synchronize' was present in historical status.

Cleared code, rode bike, problem persisted.

2) Today: Checked for codes, none present.

Replaced crankshaft position sensor, bike ran great for ~1 hour, then same problems occurred (intermittent high idle, followed by low idle/stalling at red lights.).

Checked for codes, none present.

What do you Folks suggest?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by eddfive
In 2007 Harley decided to make the throttle stop adjustment a special 5-point security bit which is kind of hard to find.
Do you know what the 5-point security bit is called, or where I may buy one?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 03:13 AM
  #209  
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Default FXDSE - Idle Problems

This post is in response to the many complaints I have found searching the web for " Idle Issues " with 2007 HD V-Twins. I purchased a 2007 FXDSE new in march 2007. Every service done via the dealer where I purchased it, I brought it to their attention of the issue that the scooter would either Idle at 1800 - 2500 RPM ( at normal operating temps ) and / or stall ( 400 -600 RPM ) at other times, ( also at normal operating temps). The dealer each time told me that they could not reproduce the problem. I have an extended warranty throught HD and lately the scooter is to the point of not running as it will either stall or run rampant at 2000+ RPM. I have tried the Intake leak test, verified the throttle cables adjusted correctly, reset the TPS by cycling 4 times ( no difference), and such. My question to the forum: Should I produce the copies of the tt410 and my prior service statements to a different dealership and then have it finally repaired / fixed. I still have 7 months on the extended warranty but feel that this intermittent and chronic Idle issue should be taken care of completely at their nickle. I paid their price for the toy and now it's their time to stand behind the product I paid for. Anyone that can give insight into how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. Of note, the bike has a SERT, VanHines pipes and Dyno mapped via the dealership ( 98hp - 105ft pounds rear tire ). The damn thing is a rocket, just intermittent High and Low Idle issues.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #210  
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Yes. Thats what a warrenty is for. As long as you have it documented. Welcome to the forum. Nice numbers for a stage one.
 
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