I will look into them. Rumor has it, there is an Indy in Rome, that is an American, and he is certified. We will have to see.

Cale

 

I did mine with Se and took it back out because it sucks, had more vibration
then I put a stock one back in good for now.

 

Next time try hitting the run then the start switch quickly after instead of waiting for the fuel pump to prime. Dont know why but a harley tech told me to try it and low and behold it works like a champ.

 

Electric motors lose power as they get hot, so your starter doesn't have as much umph when its hot as it does cold. It could be the battery also, or it could be nothing. It may just be a character flaw you have to get used to.

 

I have the exact same issues with my 09 RK. I just ordered a replacement battery. Mine was original 09 and while testing "good" I stilldont think it was full strength. The replacement also has 50 more CCA so that should help. I am also replacingmy compensator with the SE unit. My scoot sometimes kicks back when hot starts and it makes a hellacious sound. The SE compwill cure this and between the battery and new comp, I am hopeful all my starting problems will be resolved.

 

'10 RK Same problem with the SE compensator and a tuner installed. My '08 Dyna is the same.
Haven't a clue what the solution is! Maybe a little fuel bleeding through or timing set advanced?

 

03psd,
Did the compensator take care of your hard start.
My 09 ultra is doing the same thing

 

My 09 SG had an issue when hot that it would kick back and make a god awful sound and not start at about 25K miles, the sound was bad and sounded like something was coming apart. I replaced my started clutch and it took care of that issue and has been good for over a year. I also have a SE compensator waiting to get installed soon. This year I had the issue of it just not wanting to crank over either hot or cold and that was the battery. I had it load tested and it was bad. I did start a thread about the replacement of the starter clutch. If you do not have the loud bang and noise with failure to start I would think battery but if you do I would think Starter clutch. IMHO and good luck with the fix and keep us informed on what you find.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-on-09-sg.html

 

Thank you for your service and stay safe. I too had that same issue on my 2001 EGC. I put a half a can of Seafoam in the tank and ran it for a wile. Then I bought a pair of the a Screaming Eagle spark plugs and that fixed the problem. Might give it a try.

 

Several different problems blended together here, first the OP. If your starter is having trouble getting through the first compression stoke but NOT accompanied with any bang or grinding noise, it is a weak battery or bad connections in the starting circuit. You need to check both ends of both battery cables for clean and tight connections. If they are good, put a digital volt meter on the battery and watch it as you hit the starter. If the voltage drops below 9.6 the battery is "tired" (needs to be replaced) or undercharged. If you have about 14.5 volts going to the battery while the engine is at 2000 rpm or above, the charging system is good and it is pretty solid that the battery is on the way out., UNLESS most of your rides are of short duration and there isn't enough time to fully recharge during each trip.

Now for the bang and grind. From 07 through 10 with the 96 and 103 engines, the compensator was a design left over from the smaller displacements and in most cases just wasn't up to the job. When the starter engaged, the weak compensator would run right to its limit and slam against its stop placing a heavy shock load on the crankshaft and back through the primary chain into the starter drive. That bang was the comp slamming its limit. The starter drive includes a sprag over run clutch. The design consists of some short, fat needle bearings sitting on ramps in the drive hub. When the hub is driven (starter engaged) the needle bearings run up the ramps until they are jammed between the ramps and the clutch housing. It is a simple design that works pretty well until it gets "beaten to death" by the repeated shock caused by the weak compensator. When it slips, it makes that terrible grinding sound as the needles rapidly try over and over to get a grip on the housing. If the starter drive is replaced without replacing the compensator, the beating to death process starts all over again. If the compensator only is replaced, you still have a well worn starter clutch which will fail fairly soon. Replacing both is needed for a long term fix.

Failure to energetically crank through the first compression stroke is an electrical problem, while the bang and grind are mechanical problems. The first is most commonly fixed with a new battery, while the second requires some expensive replacement parts.