Clutch Question/Problem?
Hey All;
I have a clutch question: The other day I was stuck in traffic in Washington DC, it was blistering hot out. As I crept along and came to the next traffic stop, I pulled in the clutch put her in first and I released the break as I sat and waited. The bike was pulling forward as though I was releasing the clutch. Once I got on the open road it returned to normal until I got caught up in traffic on the highway. Once again got hot and same as described above. I thought at first it was a cable adjustment but it only happens when it is hot. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Joe
I have a clutch question: The other day I was stuck in traffic in Washington DC, it was blistering hot out. As I crept along and came to the next traffic stop, I pulled in the clutch put her in first and I released the break as I sat and waited. The bike was pulling forward as though I was releasing the clutch. Once I got on the open road it returned to normal until I got caught up in traffic on the highway. Once again got hot and same as described above. I thought at first it was a cable adjustment but it only happens when it is hot. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Joe
Cool picture , your bike , location ??
1.) How many miles on bike ?
2.) Have you changed the Clutch Oil and have correct amount and correct oil ?
3.) Do you have the service manual ?
4.) Is the clutch stock or ???
Any way... sound slikes it's slippin.... you need to remove derby cover and adjust per manual.... I would also change out oil..... 38 oz.
I went went with the SE Clutch kit to get rid of this very problem....
900 pound bike with a wippy clutch go figure
Screamin' Eagle® Performance Clutch Kit 37969-03A
and
Heavy-Duty Clutch Spring for Stock Clutch 37951-98
Fits '98-later Evolution 1340-equipped models and '99-later Twin Cam-equipped models
Kit increases capacity of the '98-later clutch design by over 28% to 125 lb.-ft. of torque at the crank. Includes new long life friction discs, steel plates, and 10% higher-pressure diaphragm spring. Clutch Spring P/N 37951-98 is also sold separately to assist in increasing capacity of stock clutch.
1.) How many miles on bike ?
2.) Have you changed the Clutch Oil and have correct amount and correct oil ?
3.) Do you have the service manual ?
4.) Is the clutch stock or ???
Any way... sound slikes it's slippin.... you need to remove derby cover and adjust per manual.... I would also change out oil..... 38 oz.
I went went with the SE Clutch kit to get rid of this very problem....
900 pound bike with a wippy clutch go figure
Screamin' Eagle® Performance Clutch Kit 37969-03A
and
Heavy-Duty Clutch Spring for Stock Clutch 37951-98
Fits '98-later Evolution 1340-equipped models and '99-later Twin Cam-equipped models
Kit increases capacity of the '98-later clutch design by over 28% to 125 lb.-ft. of torque at the crank. Includes new long life friction discs, steel plates, and 10% higher-pressure diaphragm spring. Clutch Spring P/N 37951-98 is also sold separately to assist in increasing capacity of stock clutch.
The same thing happened to my wifes 2010 SG Trike. Got really hot in traffic and then back to normal when cooled a bit. I noticed when it was really hot, there was more gap at the Lever. I had the Dealer look at it. He said everything was normal. Theres a lot of opinions on here about what oil is best for the primary. Makes one wonder, what is best?
Thanks
Yes that is my bike, 2003 RKC taken last week in Mount Airy, NC AKA Mayberry.
I have 51,000 miles on her. was just in the shop about a month ago and gone over so I knew it was ready for the trip. It is the stock clutch, maybe I should look into some options???
Yes that is my bike, 2003 RKC taken last week in Mount Airy, NC AKA Mayberry.
I have 51,000 miles on her. was just in the shop about a month ago and gone over so I knew it was ready for the trip. It is the stock clutch, maybe I should look into some options???
Sweet ride... 51K good low mileage.. but 2 up 30% or more is hard on parts and clutch....
Never turst a mech....other than your self my dad always said....(Air Force Mech)
Get the manual first cheap dollars $$
Adjust the clutch taking the derby cover off...yes replace the gasket and oil...adjust Not just at the "Nuts" on the cable....internal....
If that does not work then.... look at replacing the complete clutch less than $ 200 DIY is easy.... = Friction, metal disc and spring..
Go stock or step up to SE....
Good luck
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When hot the metal plates in the clutch expand. Adjust the clutch cold in the primary to no more than 1/2 turn out fr. resistance. Also I like Red-Line V-Twin Primary oil as it seems to keep things cooler, I know everyone has their preference. I also use Red-Line V-Twin Transmission oil. When you have the primary cover off try to see if there is any wear on the clutch hub.
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ColdRain
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