I adjusted my clutch recently and it start to grab where i want it and it has not slipped at all since adjustment.

However, when it starts to grab it doesnt "Bite" well, its kind mushy. Also, it takes a long time to go through the friction zone.

1) did i adjust wrong

2) how do i make it "hook up" better?

thanks.

 

1.) maybe, maybe not

2.) stronger spring

Mike

 

I don't think the "bite" or "hook-up" as you say has anything to do with the adjustment. That charactristic is in the clutch design.

As long as you have some freeplay in the clutch, in the lever, the clutch engages/disengages as you like, and the clutch doesn't slip, then you have it adjusted within an acceptable range.

Changing the "bite' or "hook-up" would require new clutch components or experimenting with the oil type you are using in the primary.

 

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What primary oil are you using?
The oil type and level can make a difference.
I didn't like the H-D SYN3 in the primary on my '02 Ultra...for what that's worth.

 

At least you know about the friction zone. That's where you want to live during low speed maneuvers as you apply a little trail braking in those "tight" turn situations.

 

Now this is a whole 'nuther topic! And the topic I thought this thread would be about when I saw the thread title.

Let's just say there are a lot of opinions on this. Personally, I never want to "live in the friction zone" unless it's absolutely necessary. I want my clutch in or out with a minimum of time in the friction zone.

It's been a while since we've had this discussion.

 

[quote=2black1s;9707020] I want my clutch in or out with a minimum of time in the friction zone.quote]

Thats the bridge im attempting to cross. It takes to long to ge tthrough my friction zone and i dont care for it. I like the effort it takes for me to pull the clutch, but i much more prefer my Dad "03 RKC

...Also, running stock lube from HD, planning on changing to something better when i do the 10K (im at 8 right now)

Lastly, sorry for the disapointing thread...lol

 

2black1s, there may be varied "opinions", but the fact is that any instuctor of an advanced course will tell you that the key to low speed control and handling is the use of throttle, keeping the clutch in the friction zone-or "gray zone" as we learned during advanced motor training, and rear brake to retard progress. That technique allows a far greater degree of control at low speed, enabling one to lock the forks over and turn with max lean and turn the bike 90, 180, even 360 degrees if such a maneuver is needed. The end result of such training and technique is a rider who has confidence and control of their bike far greater than the average rider. This is not "opinion". It is fact.

 

[quote=BuckeyeUltra;9707393]Don't sell yourself short. This was a valid question and invited input that you need. There were some good posts here, and everything you learn on HDF will enable you to become a better and (hopefully) safer rider.

One of the posts mentioned the primary fluid. That certainly will affect how a clutch "bites". I run Redline primary oil in my primary. While it is a synthetic, it has a balance of friction enhancing substances alowing for proper clutch operation. Maybe have an indy pull the primary cover and do an internal clutch adjustment as well as a fluid change and see where your at. Sometimes an internal clutch adjustment changes things for the better. The Redline shockproof transmission oil really makes a difference too, making the HD tranny shift far smoother than it does with HD Formula plus. But that's another topic.

Keep asking questions. The only dumb ones are the ones you fail to ask.