Cam Chain Tensioner
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Big Sky Country
cam chain tensioners
I waited too long and wiped out the oil pump. Replaced with S&S 510 geared cams, new oil pump,cam plate, lifters, adj. pushrods. and it all came to right at $2K. In the end I really like the 510g cams, and don't have to worry about the tensioners.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 2
From: USA
You gotta take off the exhaust (replace exhaust gaskets) and put it back on.
You'll have to cut the pushrods and replace them with easy replace adjustables OR scoot back the tank, ****** the valve covers off and remove the rocker arms (new pushrods or new VC gaskets).
You gotta take the cams, via the cam plate, out (replace 3 o'rings and oil pump o'ring seal).
You need torque wrench(s) and maybe assembly lube.
You'll want to chase all the threads with a tap; Red loctite, blue loctite.
It may be the ultimate "you might as well.....".
Replace bearings while your in there.
Get some Cams while you're in there.
Go Hydraulic (with new cam plate and oil pump) while you're in there..
Took me longer to get all the parts and figure out how to do it right than it took me to actually do it (cams, push rods, hydraulics etc., bearings). ITs not that difficult though. Its all easy if you know how...go for it...
Banned
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
When I replaced the chain tensioners, I also replaced the cams, the bearings, and the lifters. I had the shop do the job the job and also installed the adjustable push rods to minimize disassembly/reassembly time. The whole thing with parts and labor came to about $1200.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Northern Alabama
I pulled my '05 UC apart this week (no trouble noticed) as I was worried about the miles. As it turned out my outer shoe was in worse shape that the inner. Not had to check, just a bit more difficult to finish. It only took about 45 minutes work to get it to the point of inspection. Drain oil, pull one pipe, remove running board, remove cover.
Watch the bolt locations on the cover. Chase the bolt & housing threads using a 1/4-20 tap & die. I boughe an illuminated dental mirror for less than $8 at RiteAid Pharmacy to check the rear. I used a small Allen wrench in place of the made clips to hold the shoes back to check them for wear. I have about convinced myself to put it all back together and wait for winter and a bit more $$ so I can do the hydraulic upgrade & cams.
Watch the bolt locations on the cover. Chase the bolt & housing threads using a 1/4-20 tap & die. I boughe an illuminated dental mirror for less than $8 at RiteAid Pharmacy to check the rear. I used a small Allen wrench in place of the made clips to hold the shoes back to check them for wear. I have about convinced myself to put it all back together and wait for winter and a bit more $$ so I can do the hydraulic upgrade & cams.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,243
Likes: 3,267
From: west Michigan
When I checked the tensioners, I didn't drain the oil or re-cut the threads - only used brake cleaner and compressed air. I've always used this method and never had a problem with bolts or studs coming loose. I lost about a teaspoon of oil when I opened the cam chest.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 5
From: NM, land of entrapment
I'm in there now. The tensioner shoes are shot at 29K miles. Hydraulic cam plate upgrade is en route now. I chose to pull the tank, and cylinders since I'm doing 95" SE big bore while I'm at it. Popping off the rockers isn't hard at all, so if you don't want to pop for adjustable pushrods, it's an option.
Had to pull the primary case to replace the craptastic HD shifter seal. I'm not surprised it started leaking! It's just a metal cup with a tiny little rubber lip. Put in an SKF seal that is MUUUUCH better.
No major tools needed for cam chest work. Those mentioned already are what you need.
After I pulled the cam plate assy, I turned the cams by hand and man o man, what a load of friction those tensioners put on the cams!! Gears are the least drag on the motor, but gear whine is not something I like to deal with, nor crank runout issues. So, hydraulic it shall be for me.
I'm a frugal bastige, so sweat equity is the way I'll go and the satisfaction gained from learning the innards of your bike is worth every minute of effort.
Had to pull the primary case to replace the craptastic HD shifter seal. I'm not surprised it started leaking! It's just a metal cup with a tiny little rubber lip. Put in an SKF seal that is MUUUUCH better.
No major tools needed for cam chest work. Those mentioned already are what you need.
After I pulled the cam plate assy, I turned the cams by hand and man o man, what a load of friction those tensioners put on the cams!! Gears are the least drag on the motor, but gear whine is not something I like to deal with, nor crank runout issues. So, hydraulic it shall be for me.
I'm a frugal bastige, so sweat equity is the way I'll go and the satisfaction gained from learning the innards of your bike is worth every minute of effort.
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