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Well one way to narrow it down is to take the voltage regulator off your 07 street glide and put it on her 06 road king. Same pn# between the two years. If it fixes her problem, go pick up a new voltage regulator pn#74505-06
Well one way to narrow it down is to take the voltage regulator off your 07 street glide and put it on her 06 road king. Same pn# between the two years. If it fixes her problem, go pick up a new voltage regulator pn#74505-06
You know thats exactly what I was thinking I just didn't know if it was the same PN. Anyway last night I checked all the cables and did the stator tests and at the same time realized the was no ground continuity between the regulator and the bikes frame so I took the reg off and cleaned it up and reinstalled it so maybe that will do it. Oh can anyone explain how to test the reg using a DVM?
You know thats exactly what I was thinking I just didn't know if it was the same PN. Anyway last night I checked all the cables and did the stator tests and at the same time realized the was no ground continuity between the regulator and the bikes frame so I took the reg off and cleaned it up and reinstalled it so maybe that will do it. Oh can anyone explain how to test the reg using a DVM?
First check the Battery Ground Cable as it attaches to the Starter mounting bolt to make sure it is tight and clean. Then check the Ground wire from the regulator to the frame connector to make sure it is tight and clean. if those connectors are OK and this only occurs when the bike gets hot, then the electrical tests should be performed when the malfunction occurs. Additionally, because the regulator is a sealed transistorized unit, electrical failures can occur with heat, whether that heat is caused by electrical resistance or ambient temperatures.
Per the ED manual....
"The regulator must have a clean, tight ground connection for proper operation. Using an Ohmmeter with one lead on the battery ground cable and the other on the regulator ground terminal, check with the voltage regulator DC connector disengaged. the electrical continuity test is performed with the ohmmeter set to the RX1 scale. A resistance below 1 ohms should be observed."
The DC connector indicated above...is the 2 wire plug on the regulator, not the 3 wire from the stator. You will be checking the ground terminal on the regulator with the 2 wire plug disconnected.
It seems to me that I checked the 2 wire pluge to the reg and read the same voltage as directly on the battery and that the ground had no resistance when checked against the frame and I loosened the ground connectors ander the seat and retightened the so I'm hopeing all's good if not I'll swap regs with the SG. I wish I had a manual or at least a wiring diag!
It seems to me that I checked the 2 wire pluge to the reg and read the same voltage as directly on the battery and that the ground had no resistance when checked against the frame and I loosened the ground connectors ander the seat and retightened the so I'm hopeing all's good if not I'll swap regs with the SG. I wish I had a manual or at least a wiring diag!
The ground from the regulator may not terminate under the seat...on older models it terminated on the right side of the frame near the swing arm pivot shaft....Just trace the wires back from the regulator to check.
To check the stator....unplug the 3 pin connector at the regulator and start the bike. using a voltmeter on AC amps....probe 2 pins at a time on the stator connector until all combinations of 2 have been checked on all 3 terminals.....each reading should be 30-40 amps AC. For the regulator it only has 2 wires coming out of it going back to the DC side of the electrical system..one is positive the other negative.....With the bike running @ 2000 rpm it should be putting about 13.7 VDC back in to the battery.
Thats why i say check it HOT or when it malfunctions.....the system may be just fine now but add HEAT and something is breaking down....BUT first you have to make sure your ground and plug connections are good.
Well one way to narrow it down is to take the voltage regulator off your 07 street glide and put it on her 06 road king. Same pn# between the two years. If it fixes her problem, go pick up a new voltage regulator pn#74505-06
I finally got around to doing just that and now the street glide is charging at 11 vdc at at idle and 14 or so on the highway and before it was always at 14 which fully explains why the batt light comes on and it doesn't die on trips. Anyway I'll see what happens when she gets Home tonight and likely be lookin for a new one tomorrow.
Last edited by cowboy-bc; Aug 3, 2010 at 11:36 AM.
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