Lowering blocks, yes or no?

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Aug 24, 2010 | 08:32 PM

#21

coolmac

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 383

Likes: 3

From: Pittsburgh, PA

The tire to fender clearance is different with the 09'-11' to the earlier touring models.
The 09'- present have more clearance (+1").
The 1" blocks work great with 12" shocks on the new frame.
This is my setup . . . Pingel lowering blocks.

Aug 24, 2010 | 09:08 PM

#22

silverbullitt

Thread Starter

Road Captain

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 599

Likes: 1

From: Little Rock, Arkansas

Thanks for all the great input. I always learn a lot from this forum.

Aug 24, 2010 | 09:19 PM

#23

rmouse

Advanced

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 98

Likes: 0

From: Northern Utah

I tired a set of Ness blocks @ 1.5" drop on my 08 Road King, they were relatively inexpensive but bottomed out frequently when riding two up. I sold them and installed a lower and narrower seat which worked well.

Aug 25, 2010 | 06:35 PM

#24

jag1886

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 4,122

Likes: 43

From: Boise Idaho

I tried the cheap way first with blocks had problems with the tire hitting in the top of the fender and I only weigh 190lbs and ride 1 up, change to a set of short Progressive air shocks and no more problems, rides better to boot.

Aug 25, 2010 | 07:16 PM

#25

Oldman Harley

Road Captain

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 528

Likes: 0

From: Desert Aire, Washington

This is kind of a mixed bag of results. I have the Road6Customs on my Ultra with the standard 13" ultra shock. I run 7 to 10 psi with the shock in the 1" lower position and never bottom out. When I go 2 up with a full load I up the shock pressure to 25 to 30 psi. I guess you need to play with your air pressure for the best ride. When I first got this bike I installed the 12" street glide shock and rode that way for about 10,000 miles and didn't like the ride. Now with one inch more travel the ride is much improved over the shorter shocks and no lowering bracket.

Tim

Aug 26, 2010 | 06:50 PM

#26

Punjabi Rider

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2009

Posts: 3,808

Likes: 285

From: Green Country Oklahoma

From looking at this site blocks the way to go I guess. With short shocks laden or unladen seat height doesn't change much, because shocks are stiff and travel gap is almost nothing. Stock shocks lowers the seat height when laden with 180lbs almost 1 3/4 " .

Aug 30, 2010 | 05:06 PM

#27

Cherokeetad

Intermediate

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 36

Likes: 0

From: Arizona

I installed my Road 6 custom lowering kit today. The install was easy and I put it in the second hole for the 2" drop. I measured the distance at the center of the rear fender unladen both before and after and it dropped mine about 1 1/2" (12 1/2" to 11 1/2"). I pumped the air shocks up to just above 30psi. I took it for a ride over a bumpey road and railroad tracks and never bottomed out. I'm 6'2" and 205 lbs and seldom have the tour pak on. Truth is it doesn't seem that drastic of a change as the bike felt and handled the same as before the install. I plan to keep an eye on everything just to be sure there are no problems but so far I like it.

Aug 30, 2010 | 06:46 PM

#28

FLoTR

Road Master

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 1,086

Likes: 1

From: North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbullitt

Thanks bob. I was sure about two things. Steel and grade 8 bolts. I just want to try to lower is one inch first, see if I like it.

Steel? Why does it have to be steel? I'm running TJ Products lowering blocks that were machined from 50,000 psi(tensil,whatever) strength aircraft aluminum...... I'm glad the aircraft industry don't mind using alum.