Subscribed! I really want to do this also and I'm really digging the idea of using a lighted switch! I was thinking about maybe find a place that does some type of engraving to get labels put on the switch also!

 

You may be able to have small vinyl stickers made that could say "PWR" or "ECO" in at least close to the HD font/size. The bigger problem may be getting the original markings off the HD switch. I happen to have an extra HD "ACC" switch somewhere in the garage...

 

You can try going -10's without a cooler but that'll put you in stock territory and it will run hot like stock. I find the cooler makes up for that, for the most part, and keeps peak temperatures in control. IMO that allows you to go near-stoich (14.7) in the cruise range without generating too much heat. I personally think all TC engines should have an oil cooler installed, even if you run a rich map at all times. Synthetic oil makes some difference, too.

 

Thanks for taking the time to create that diagram. Based on this I may re-wire my switch with an SPDT relay that would reverse the function of the SPST switch in your diagram. For AT, I would want the primary circuit to the PCV closed when the LED is off, which is when AT is functioning. I would want the LED illuminated as a warning that it is in the rich open-loop mode, which is where I don't want it running most of the time.

I don't see where RS has a SPDT relay, but there are plenty to be had on-line. I would connect the PCV to 30 and 87a. Here's a diagram:



BTW, RS's specs for the relay you listed makes me wonder: Max operating 85°F and max humidity 60%. That means it is out of spec about 95% of the time in S. LA, especially when mounted where it picks up some engine heat, like under the seat. FWIW, I have a relay (not RS) for my air horns between the horns and the engine, only a couple of inches from the jugs. It is very hot there yet the relay has been working now for four years. I used a cheap auto relay on my old RK for the passing lamps under the left side cover (hot), and it never failed in eight years--so maybe their spec is very conservative.

 

For those of you who want to use the stock ACC switch but don't want to bother with connecting a relay for the LED to illuminate, connect the PCV using this procedure.

(1) The end connector for the ACC switch is under the seat fitted with a rubber cap, and if you connect the PCV there you will eliminate the need to run wires under the tank. OTOH you must pull the P&A fuse first, as you don't want 12V flowing through the PCV at any time. The P&A fuse only powers the ACC switch on the '07, but at last as far back as '09 it also feeds the cig lighter and '10> also adds heated grips, so check your wiring diagrams for your bike.

(2) You can cut the O and O/R wires at the connector under the seat, then splice those into the wires going to the PCV. Or, tap into them without cutting, but either way be sure to insulate well with tape or heat-shrink. To avoid violating your stock wiring you can buy an adapter from HD. Cut one of the end connectors off the adapter and splice PCV wires to the O and O/R wires. The other connector won't be used, so you can cut that one off too if you want to get it out of the way.

(3) With the PCV connected to the computer via USB cable, go to PC Tools > Configure > Map Switch
and check the box for "Enable Map Switch." Once this is enabled when you retrieve or send a map you will have the option of sending it to Map 1 or Map 2. You can now load the appropriate maps and send them to the position you desire. Also note in the software on the left side you can left click on any of the data channels and change it to read "current map." To verify your switch is working simply toggle the switch back and forth and note that it will change from Map 1 to Map 2.

If you're using a switch without LED functionality, as in the steps above, you can load the map you want for either switch position. If you want to use the ACC switch and wire it per KutenFLHX's diagram, I would put the lean map you'll be running most of the time in the open (LED off) position, as I would want the LED to be a warning that the rich map is enabled.

I don't have the LED working on my bike and I just remember what position toggles what map. OTOH I may connect a relay if I can find one that closes the primary circuit when power is not applied, the opposite of the standard auto relay as in KutenFLHX's post.

This will not work for Auto-Tune, which can function with a hardware switch but uses an entirely different procedure. For info on that, read my write-up here.

 

Here are some pictures of the install:
Quick Disconnect Harness attached to switch

Switch Installed (scratched off lettering with a knife - looking around for lettering to put on it)

Ran switch wires through trees (same location as connector for other switches)

Tapped into orange and black wire in harness connector above stereo (switch circuit - only on when ignition switch at ignition)

Relay mounted to left of stereo on bracket (as looking from the front)

For now, I ran the wires to the PCV under the tank panel until I have help to remove and an empty tank.


Just need to connect wires to PCV once I get the Economy map from FuelMoto. Hope this helps! The led works when the relay switch is closed and off when open.

 

I thought the PC-V was tunable from different reference data points. I saw in Dyno Jets info that you could have it switch maps from input from any .5 volt sensor. Why can't you set it up to go to a richer map when your head temp gets to a predetermined point, or adjust your map from input from an oil temp sensor?

 

I got my Economy map from Jamie tonight and will be loading it tomorrow as well as connecting the two switch leads to the PCV unit. The map he sent looks quite a bit leaner in the cruising range (near what iclick was suggesting from the base map). I'll have to get it loaded and see how my mpgs change compared to base. Eventually I will probably get the Autotune, but at least for now I have the switch wired and a second "economy" map to use.

 

Not a bad idea. Now that I have everything wired, it would be quite easy to swap out the relay that I have with an SPDT relay instead.

 

I know this is probably a dumb question at this point, but when I load the second map, do I need to have the bike running, not running...? I know that I need to make sure that the map switch is enable, but didn't know if the power from the USB cable is sufficient for loading or if the ignition need to be on/run. Thanks for your help and I hope that I have been of some help to all of you.