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I know this is probably a dumb question at this point, but when I load the second map, do I need to have the bike running, not running...?
No need for the bike to be running, but just connect the PCV to the computer via USB. I haven't done this with the basic PCV in quite some time, but IIRC when you load the second (economy) map it should ask you whether you want it saved as Map 1 or Map 2. You can load either map corresponding to either switch position.
I know that I need to make sure that the map switch is enable, but didn't know if the power from the USB cable is sufficient for loading or if the ignition need to be on/run.
The PCIII needed to be powered by either the bike or a 9V battery, but the PCV can be powered by USB only.
I haven't done this with the basic PCV in quite some time, but IIRC when you load the second (economy) map it should ask you whether you want it saved as Map 1 or Map 2.
I'm assuming that Map 1 is what is loaded now (with the switch open) and Map 2 corresponds to the secondary map that I will be loading and running when the switch is closed. Hopefully I have no problems loading the map and it works great.
I'm assuming that Map 1 is what is loaded now (with the switch open) and Map 2 corresponds to the secondary map that I will be loading and running when the switch is closed. Hopefully I have no problems loading the map and it works great.
Would you give us a tutorial on loading the maps when you get finished? I'm going to do this for a friend with a PCV (no AT) soon and I would like to do it without trial and error. I did this with the PCIII and multifunction hub, but it doesn't work the same as the PCV.
Would you give us a tutorial on loading the maps when you get finished? I'm going to do this for a friend with a PCV (no AT) soon and I would like to do it without trial and error. I did this with the PCIII and multifunction hub, but it doesn't work the same as the PCV.
I got my second map loaded today and got the wires for the switch connected to the PCV. Once good thing is that the PCV software backs up your maps when you connect to the unit. Before you install the second map, make sure to enable the switch "Select Power Commander Tools Configure Map Switch". Open the second map, and then press the Send Map button in the lower left of the screen. It will ask you which map you want to send (1 or 2 with 1 being the map loaded already by FuelMoto). It will also give you some error messages asking to make sure you want to do this because Autotune is not available if you do.....
Works great, now I just need to put some miles on to see how my fuel economy has improved.
Edit: You could also set up the maps so that the "Econ" mode is map 1 and "PWR" mode is map 2. This way the led on the switch would be on only when in power mode. Depends on the type of riding you do. If you are mostly running in the cruising range and want fuel economy, I would but the Econ map in 1. If you use power mode mostly, then put it in map 1. Right now I have Power in 1 and Econ in 2, but may change depending on which I use more.
Last edited by KutenFLHX; Sep 11, 2010 at 04:47 PM.
Reason: Update map location
For those of you with Auto-Tune, I got my ACC switch to work illuminating the LED when in open-loop (rich) mode, just like I wanted. I bought a Radio Shack DPDT relay #275-218 ($9), which has two banks of secondary pins and would work as well for a non-Auto Tune application. A diagram is attached, and I have the PCV on one bank connected to Pins 2 & 6. This means when the switch is not on (i.e. current not flowing to the relay coil and LED), those pins are closed and Auto-Tune is in learning mode (closed-loop, lean). When I activate the switch and the LED is on the relay opens Pins 2 & 6 and Auto-Tune switches off (open-loop, rich).
With no Auto-Tune you can connect the same way or reverse the maps using Pins 4 & 6. Note that odd-numbered pins work exactly the same as the even, so you can attach two separate devices if you want to. I used a DPDT switch because it has two banks of secondary pins, and this leaves the option open to have the same switch activate something else, like maybe an engine or oil-cooler fan by attaching 12V (ignition switched) to Pin 5 and the fan to Pin 3.
Note that "normally closed" means the switch is flowing current in both secondary circuits (Pins 1 & 5 and 2 & 6) when the coil is not activated. I connected my PCV this way so that the LED is on as a warning when I'm in the open-loop (rich) mode, which is where I normally won't be running. Also note that if you don't ground the black wire on the switch the LED won't illuminate.
One day when I have some time (and the weather stinks), I am going to swap out the SPST relay that I am currently using for a SPDT relay. I am finding that I am running in the "Econ" mode much more often than the "Power" mode and would like the "Econ" to be the default running map as I will probably be adding the Autotune next year.
You may be able to have small vinyl stickers made that could say "PWR" or "ECO" in at least close to the HD font/size.
I found a way to make some custom decals for the Power/Econ switch. I am using a decal paper and software from Testors that is typically used for making custom decals for models. Link I made up several sizes to find the one that I think will fit the best. Arial font seems to look the closest. I made both a PWR and an ECON decal since I have the led on for ECON, but plan to switch the relay so that in PWR mode when led is on.
I get crappy gas milage too. Last week averaged 32/33 on the interstate w/the wife 75-85. Bike runs fantastic though!!
When I can afford it, I am going to have the glide tuned with an outfit that will dyno it and are PC-V equipped to do so.
This is ofcourse is after the Tw6's are installed. The dyno-ers are saying that can get me 8-9 miles more to the gallon with a tune, but it would be pointless to tune it first and then have the cams installed. The dyno-ers are saying that they will install the cams and dyno it for right @$500, with @least a 1 year guarantee, so I'm thinking about for that kind of $, plus the tune to let them do it...
Seems very reasonable...
It would be better to install the cams first, then build a map for it, or use FM's map first and then see how it does, and if not good then have it dyno-ed. but I'm leaning towards doing my own map.....I think.
Most that have went this way seem to be fairly satisified.
Last edited by lionsm13; Sep 16, 2010 at 05:49 PM.
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