no start from starter
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 527
Likes: 25
battery charged up fine?
also, on my 98 and my 06 the start relay and the brake light relays are the same part number. the 06 has them in the fuse block. switch them out to make sure its not the relay. good luck.
head
also, on my 98 and my 06 the start relay and the brake light relays are the same part number. the 06 has them in the fuse block. switch them out to make sure its not the relay. good luck.
head
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
Problem score card
a) battery - is good
b) run switch - is good
c) ignition position switch - is good
d) relay in fuse box - is good
e) start solenoid - does it have one , not checked yet
f) starter fuse - is there an inline high amp starter fuse
g) bypass everything and crank starter - hot lead on starter (by pass everything, check for crank) not tested yet. If it cranks, this should rule out the bolt retorque issue
h) starter windings - not checked yet (not needed if starter cranks under e)
i) suggestion #1 tsb (unlocatable) is reportedly recommending starter bolt retorque, not done yet (if starter cranks under item e, bolts are probally good)
battery charged up fine?
Yes even used a fully charged car battery
also, on my 98 and my 06 the start relay and the brake light relays are the same part number. the 06 has them in the fuse block. switch them out to make sure its not the relay. good luck.
Thats a 10/4. I noticed the relays were the same and swapped them out to see if the problem transferred. In swapping them out, the small click was still heard in the fuse box. Im not hearing a starter seloniod engage. So I will have to test the starter itself, then decideding if it is bad, or if the p[roblem is in between the fuse box relay and starter.
Do a search here on the forum for the 2007 starter issues service bulletin. I posted it somewhere.
Did a search, did not find it, but got clues about a starter bolt retorque and an exhaust bracket related to the ground circuit.
Mine did that once and it was the starter bolts were not tight enough to make a good ground. 07 ultra. I think that there was a TSB just like the previous post indicated!
OK, will do
my 07 ultra did the same thing. Check your starter bolts first!
Ok, will do
a) battery - is good
b) run switch - is good
c) ignition position switch - is good
d) relay in fuse box - is good
e) start solenoid - does it have one , not checked yet
f) starter fuse - is there an inline high amp starter fuse
g) bypass everything and crank starter - hot lead on starter (by pass everything, check for crank) not tested yet. If it cranks, this should rule out the bolt retorque issue
h) starter windings - not checked yet (not needed if starter cranks under e)
i) suggestion #1 tsb (unlocatable) is reportedly recommending starter bolt retorque, not done yet (if starter cranks under item e, bolts are probally good)
battery charged up fine?
Yes even used a fully charged car battery
also, on my 98 and my 06 the start relay and the brake light relays are the same part number. the 06 has them in the fuse block. switch them out to make sure its not the relay. good luck.
Thats a 10/4. I noticed the relays were the same and swapped them out to see if the problem transferred. In swapping them out, the small click was still heard in the fuse box. Im not hearing a starter seloniod engage. So I will have to test the starter itself, then decideding if it is bad, or if the p[roblem is in between the fuse box relay and starter.
Do a search here on the forum for the 2007 starter issues service bulletin. I posted it somewhere.
Did a search, did not find it, but got clues about a starter bolt retorque and an exhaust bracket related to the ground circuit.
Mine did that once and it was the starter bolts were not tight enough to make a good ground. 07 ultra. I think that there was a TSB just like the previous post indicated!
OK, will do
my 07 ultra did the same thing. Check your starter bolts first!
Ok, will do
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
solenoid is the cylinder riding piggy back at 2 o'clock on the starter- 3 small bolts on the end cover
solenoids can go bad if you have a weak battery, or bad connection- which cause internal problems ( which are easy to solve)
from the the bike right side you can see a connector going to the solenoid, probably white with a green wire.
If you test voltage here, you should see 12 volts when you hit starter button
that tests handlebar wiring, relay, handlebar switches
If that is good
and battery is known good ( 12 volts, lights nice and bright?)
suggest you disconnect battery cables at battery.
follow those cables and disconnect positive from starter- brighten up the lugs with sandpaper or wire brush.
follow negative cable to chassis or frame mount- brighten.
loosen & retorque starter mounting bolts
brighten lugs at battery ends of cables and reattach. positive first.
( you do positive first so that if your wrench hits the frame you don't have a shower of sparks)
connect negative
most electrical problems are bad connections.
many "repairs" are when the new parts are swapped in, the connections are renewed- the part wasn't the problem, the connection was.
MK
solenoids can go bad if you have a weak battery, or bad connection- which cause internal problems ( which are easy to solve)
from the the bike right side you can see a connector going to the solenoid, probably white with a green wire.
If you test voltage here, you should see 12 volts when you hit starter button
that tests handlebar wiring, relay, handlebar switches
If that is good
and battery is known good ( 12 volts, lights nice and bright?)
suggest you disconnect battery cables at battery.
follow those cables and disconnect positive from starter- brighten up the lugs with sandpaper or wire brush.
follow negative cable to chassis or frame mount- brighten.
loosen & retorque starter mounting bolts
brighten lugs at battery ends of cables and reattach. positive first.
( you do positive first so that if your wrench hits the frame you don't have a shower of sparks)
connect negative
most electrical problems are bad connections.
many "repairs" are when the new parts are swapped in, the connections are renewed- the part wasn't the problem, the connection was.
MK
Trending Topics
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
From: MD
Here is the link to the SB that DAWG posted on the Starter for 07's .....
http://www.box.net/shared/ma1aimen3a
http://www.box.net/shared/ma1aimen3a
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
I just recently had the same thing happen to me a couple weeks ago on my 07 FLHTC. I bought the bike about a month ago from the dealer. Turns out one of the starter bolts was gone and the other one was loose. You would think if there was a notice from HD on this issue, the dealership would have checked it before selling the bike.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
first of all, my thanks for the starter bolt tip.....I would have wound up replacing the start selinoid or starter and by virtue of a proper re-install, the problem would have been fixed.
so I was able to get to 1 of the starter bolts and after turning the bolt 1/8 of a turn, the bike started up.
so now, I need to get to the other bolts and tighten them at least that much.
you know, we need a new thread of the tools we need to carry to fix this kind of spooky sh%$t. I would have been pissed if I was on the road in the middle of now where and could have aplied an easy fix if I had the right tool.
thanks again.
so I was able to get to 1 of the starter bolts and after turning the bolt 1/8 of a turn, the bike started up.
so now, I need to get to the other bolts and tighten them at least that much.
you know, we need a new thread of the tools we need to carry to fix this kind of spooky sh%$t. I would have been pissed if I was on the road in the middle of now where and could have aplied an easy fix if I had the right tool.
thanks again.