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Front brake lever

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
MarkR's Avatar
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From: Tomball
Default Front brake lever

My front brake lever will not disengage far enough to engage the brake light switch (The brake light stays on until I push the lever out). The switch seems to be working fine and the front pads aren't to worn. The lever does feel like it is looser than it use to be.
Does any one have any ideas?
07 FLHTCU
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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I had a similar issue with my '05 UC. In my case the cruise control quit working due to the brake light switch staying on and the cruise control unit thinking the brake was being applied. After some examination, I removed the brake lever and used a dab of epoxy to attach a #4 brass nut to the arm that activated the switch so the switch would be pressed in a bit quicker.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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head's Avatar
head
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when i lived on a dirt road, i would have to spray some contact cleaner in there from time to time and then just move the lever in and out a few times. that would usually do it.

head
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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I noticed my lever had worn slightly where tab pushed the switch. It had worn enough to cause the light to start to flicker. I put a little dab of JB Weld on the worn groove, filed it smooth and voila. Kind of a backyard fix but beats buying a new lever.

The levers will wear grooves in the switch housings over time, and they'll feel looser. A homemade bushing will tighten them back up.

The first thing I would is make sure all the pivots and any metal to metal is lubed up good, and see if it makes a difference.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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I had a similar problem with the brake lights flickering and was able to stop the flicker by pushing the lever forward. Sprayed some silicone in the front master cylinder/lever area to lube it and that seemed to help for a few rides but the issue kept reoccurring so I took it to the dealer as the warranty was about to expire. They also sprayed some magic potion on it and told me I was good to go. Checked it out before leaving the dealer and still had the problem, imagine that! They ended up replacing the complete front master cylinder assembly that included a new lever to correct the problem. Got them to show me the old master cylinder which they disassembled to trouble shoot and there was some corrosion/oxidation in the piston bore opening. Possibly this is your problem and might be fixed by replacing the complete master cylinder assembly or installing a piston service kit.

Pages 48 & 49 of the 2007 Touring Parts Catalog:
45105-05A-MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY,front-dual (black) All Models
45072-96C-PISTON SERVICE KIT, master cylinder, 11/16 in. bore All Models
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:13 AM
  #6  
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Have you taken your lever off recently? If so, if you didn't use a shim, you could have broken the plunger switch.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Fcal124
Have you taken your lever off recently? If so, if you didn't use a shim, you could have broken the plunger switch.

Lubricate too.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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From: Tomball
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I ended up doing a rebuild kit on the master cylinder and all is good now.
Thanks' for the replies.
 
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