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This is the second time the bike has turned off on me. Can someone please help?

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Default This is the second time the bike has turned off on me. Can someone please help?

A month ago, I was riding down I95 and the bike just slowly cut off by itself. No warning, just cut off. But slowly though, the engine started to act on its own like i let off of the throttle but i didnt. I was twisting it up even the more because I was in the hammer lane. Once i got it off on the shoulder, the starter would turn over but the bike would not fire up. Once i got it to the shop, the mechanic told me it was the power commander. He replaced it with Rev Tec's EFI box and sent me out of the shop. He said he didnt ride it because it was too cold but he was pretty sure that solved the problem. He used the diagnosis of disconnecting the power commander and plugging the main wiring harnes back together and starting the bike. I said ok, paid my money and picked the bike up.

Christmas eve, I took the bike on its maiden voyage after getting it out of the shop and finding some warmer weather, (40 deg.) While im out finishing up my Christmas shopping it cuts off on me again, almost between shifts. I must admit, its been a while since i rode my baby and i did get out and run it. While the rpms rose to about 5200, she shuts off on me. A helpful bmw biker ( i guess they may call themselves riders) helped me push it into a lot. After i caught my breath from pushing uphill, i was kind of frustrated that the same thing happened again. I called the mechanic on his cell phone and explained to him what took place and he says that those are two separate issues because the first issue was at a constant speed on the highway and the second issue was leaving a light and the rpms are high. I told him, whatever, the bike is comming back to see you..

I ride an 01 Electraglide with the MM fuel injection and it has acted funny before, but not this funny. I cant immagine what the problem could be. Have any of you experienced these problems before and what did you do to fix it? If you could help i would deffinately appreciate this late Christmas gift. Thanks fellas.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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Did the pisswap mechanic check/change any of the sensors? The MM injected bikes were famous for having a crank position sensor or one of the other sensor **** the bed and stall out.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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He should have at the very least checked to see if there were any codes showing in the computer, it also could have just been a bad connection with the Power Commander. Hopefully he does a more thorough diagnosis this time, I don't have much faith in a guy that just throws parts at it & hopes that it's fixed.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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By the way they do sell coats in Virginia don't they?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DTTJGlide
By the way they do sell coats in Virginia don't they?

They sell coats and heated gear. I would have gone out earlier but the wife was complaining about me catching a cold and how she wasnt going to take care of me because it was my own fault.....bla, bla, bla.....

The mechanic should have tried it out one way or another. but giving it to me without test riding because of a cold is a hoax.

Anybody know the price of a crank sensor? Id hate to waste my hd gift card on one but I guess i have to do what i have to do.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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ThaGlyde:

I had similar incidents with my '06 FLHPi. H-D does not seem to be fond of Power Commanders. In my case, the high fluctuating RPMs were caused by a faulty IAC. Changing the IAC was a real pain for me and took about 9 hours. But the $45 IAC was a LOT easier to swallow than H-D's solution of dropping the PC-III in favor of the SERT at a cost of $750+.

The engine cut out in my case was a faulty ground-side connector between my voltage regulator and fuse block. H-D put 2 new voltage regulators on the bike; one at my cost, one at theirs. But the problem remained. I took it to an independent mechanic and he quickly found the connector problem. The real problem was the $8 connector, not the $350 regulator.

Maybe my problems will give you another perspective to solve yours. Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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take it back, tell him he did not fix it, you dont want it back until it is fixed, and no you will not pay him to simply start replacing parts, tell him to actually DIAGNOSE the problem and fix it right..then you will pay for only that one part, no labor, you have already paid for labor and parts not needed, its his baby now.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:18 AM
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The coat remark was made for the mech, not you, if it's a crank sensor it would have thrown a code. If you have a manual you can check codes yourself.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DTTJGlide
The coat remark was made for the mech, not you, if it's a crank sensor it would have thrown a code. If you have a manual you can check codes yourself.

After a couple starts i did see the blinking but i guess i was so pissed off, i didnt count or anything. Its still in the trailer tied down but i could start it on the trailer and see what takes place.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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You didn't say how how many miles were on the bike, but could it be a fuel problem? Perhaps the filter? It could also be a regulator/ coil issue. Pull the trouble codes first. The manual gives a good diagnostic on "Cranks but will not start". If the idle went high on start up I would suspect the IAC, but the bike should still start with a bad IAC.
 
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