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Handlebar Adjustment on an FL

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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Default Handlebar Adjustment on an FL

The search function did not return the information that I need (or at least the information that I expected). I have a 2010 FLHX and I’m trying to adjust the handlebars back about an inch or so. I removed the ignition and fairing cap, but I could not get at the rear handlebar clamp bolts because they are too close to the inner fairing. I could wedge a hex wrench into the heads of the bolts, but the wrench would contact my painted inner fairing and I don’t want to scratch it. Looks like I’ll need to cut down a hex wrench to about 1/4inch long on the short side so that I can get it in between the inner fairing and the bolt heads without scratching the inner fairing. The question that I have is do the bolt heads take a 6mm or 1/4” hex wrench? I’ve read on this forum that it takes a 1/4” hex wrench, but I measured it as best I could and it looks like it may require a 6mm wrench. I’m just trying to avoid having to make two tools.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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I used a straight 1/4" allen wobbler on mine.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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If you do not have the chrome radio trim bezel on, you can actually bend up the piece of inner fairing that sits below the raidio (obviously once the radio is out). Also since you have it apart, replace the stock bolts with the new design bolts that don't contact your radio in order to prevent CD skips. There was a SB on this awhile ago.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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This is a poor design on FL/Batwing bikes....why would they make it so difficult to adjust handlebars!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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I guess it would have costed HD another 0.1 cents per handlebar bolt to put a regulary hex head bolt on these instead of the socket cap bolts so you could easily access them with a combination wrench.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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might want to hang a sweatshirt over tank to protect it if the bars drop suddenly.

take any of your 1/4" bits, phillips will probably do.

put the butt end in the bolt head, use a 1/4" wrench on the bit to loosen the bolt.

do same on the other side. ( you only need to loosen the exposed "rear" bolts on the clamps)

move bars

snug up the bolts- not all the way.

turn bars to check that they won't hit tank

tighten up

** same trick works for evo intake manifold bolts (or you can drop $30 for the "special wrench")



Mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 2, 2011 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
might want to hang a sweatshirt over tank to protect it if the bars drop suddenly.

take any of your 1/4" bits, phillips will probably do.

put the butt end in the bolt head, use a 1/4" wrench on the bit to loosen the bolt.

do same on the other side.

move bars

snug up the bolts- not all the way.

turn bars to check that they won't hit tank

tighten up

Mike
Good advice! I thought about this after giving up trying to get access to the bolt heads and putting everthing back together. I was too tired to go back out in the garage and take everthing back apart again to try it.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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just loosen the 2 rear bolts,you should be able to shove the bars where you want them..you have to take out the 4 turn signal mount bolts and lift the fairing up a few inches to get to the front clamp bolts
 
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