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Time for stage 2, does this look good

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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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Default Time for stage 2, does this look good

Getting ready to have some winter mods done and wanted to see what you think. I’ve got a 2001 road king carbed with 25k. Typical stage 1 SE ac, thunderheader 2-1, carb mods. About 50/50 solo vs. 2up riding mostly highway.

I was planning on the hydraulic cam tensioner kit, Andrews 26 cams, Torrington inner bearing, HD 95” kit pn 16546-99, SE cast pistons pn 22851-99 and a dynatek tc88 ignition. Looks like about $1450 in parts and I’ve got a 20% off coupon for 1 part so I’ll put that towards the tensioner kit.

Not planning on doing lifters or adjustable pushrods. I know some will say go with gear drive. I’m expecting to go from about 70hp to 90hp with these changes and still maintain a reliable touring bike. It gets me from 88 with a 8.5 compression ratio to 95 with a 9.4 cr and I’ll bump the rev limiter up to 6000.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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I would suggest:

Forged Pistons instead of cast
Gear Driven cam (you already mentioned this)
Have your existing heads bored to 95" and matched to the pistons versus buying a kit.

Regardless of what you decide, you'll appreciate the boost in power.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:23 AM
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I think you have a good plan. As suggested above, i would have your cylinders bored and pistons matched. I would also replace the lifters.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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Just did basically the same build on my 01 Police (EFI)...very pleased...what a difference.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the replies. The HD 95 kit is $300 and pistons are $180. Isn't it about the same cost ($300) to have my stock cylinders bored? I assume dealerships won't bore stock heads so I'd need to remove them and send them to someone right? I'm not seeing the benefit so help me out please. Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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New lifters for sure to many miles on your old ones running on your existing cam.

Most will say your existing
Cylinders that have been heat seasoned will be straighter then the new
SE cylinders.

Lots of people go with forged pistons on upgrades, there really only necessary in high rpm high HP builds. The stock pistons are cast and for a mild build are probably a little quieter.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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They used my jugs...and I had them replace the lifters...already had the 26s...but they did replace the cam bearings and the idle actuator for my efi...total cost of my build was 1200.00
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by capstone
Thanks for the replies. The HD 95 kit is $300 and pistons are $180. Isn't it about the same cost ($300) to have my stock cylinders bored? I assume dealerships won't bore stock heads so I'd need to remove them and send them to someone right? I'm not seeing the benefit so help me out please. Thanks!
Boring seasoned cylinders is the preferred method. Cylinders are less likely to warp over time and better piston fit. This equates to less chances you'll have problems with oil consumption down the road.

That said, there are plenty of these 95 kits running around with no problems. In fact, i have one in my 03 Heritage. Not one problem with it in the 6 yrs since it was done.

Check around and see what kind of deals you can get on an exchange program. That's where they send you the new (bored) cylinders and pistons to fit - then you send them your old ones after the build. When i did my 107 build i went through GMR Performance http://www.gmrperformance.com/. Steve sent me the new cylinders, heads, pistions, etc. up front, then i shipped him my take-offs after the build. If you plan on doing the install yourself then you're are better off getting everything through Steve or one of the other trusted vendors - there are many others. Prices will be much less than HD.

If you get the parts from a vendor like GMR, and need someone to do the install, then you may need to go to an Indy shop. HD usually doesn't like you showing up with a box full of parts that you purchased somewhere else. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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Thanks MrHog, that helps me understand. I will look into boring my stockers or doing a swap.

BigAl, what kind of performance improvement did you see after the changes?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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I used to work for a Engine development shop who specialized in camshafts for all vehicle types, the one thing I learnt was, always replace lifters when changing cams. Cams are ground with a taper to rotate the lifter and help prevent wear, therefore if you fit new cams to worn lifters you stand a good chance of wiping out both cam and lifters!
 
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