Another tensioner post.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
I want to do it myself. I did all my wrenching on my Goldwing which was something I took pride in. But I don't really want to buy tools that I will use once. Do I have to have the inner bearing puller to do the job myself? Or does taking the assembly to the dealer do away with needing any of the specialty tools? I just figured even if they weren't worn that bad to go ahead and get it over with.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html
If you go the hybrid route just have the dealer order the parts and when the parts come in take them your assembled OEM cam plate and let them make the change over. Rent the inner baering puller and R/R the inner bearings. Line up the timing marks on the ouer drive sprockets, install the oil pump, stab the assembled cam plate, align/install the oil pump and your done, almost. If you were to go the '07 OEM route, you can R/R the cam plate in your garage with no special tools but you still need the puller for the inner cam bearings and you would need new N style conversion cams; stockers won't work with the '07 OEM cam plate and this would add to your cost. At 34K miles, I would install new lifters as well.
I don't recall what you had planned to do about pushrods; changing to adjustables or retaining stock? If retaining stock you will need to raise (I find it less hassle to remove) the fuel tank, remove rocker box covers, loosen rocker arm supports and pull pushrods from the top; reverse process to close. If adjustables, clip the stock pushrods with a large bolt cutter and install the adjustables from the bottom. The trade off is more money/less work with adustables but you do have to adjust them. Save money and no adjusting with stock pushrods but more work; your call.
You can do it but you need the service manual for your model.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 280
From: North Cental Iowa
On a 2001 fuel injected bike you will also need a special outer cam drive gear if you want to use the new roller style chain on the outer drive.Andrews makes one & it runs about $60, you run the original cam chain as that's what you'll be running on the inner unless you decide to change cams. I did the SE kit install this fall & I went with the new gear & chain set up, mostly because I had 68K on the bike before I did the upgrade. I went the SE set up since I already had Crane cams in the bike. It's your call on the lifters, both my cams & lifters looked great & were quiet so I didn't see any reason for a change, the lifters are straight out of a LT-1 small block chevy & they last a lot longer than that in a V-8. HD had trouble with the EVO lifters, but I haven't heard of much problem with the TCs, I'd say if they look good & haven't been noisy to leave them alone, just make sure to mark them so they run in the same direction on the same cam lobes as before. As djl said I think the SE kit is worth it for the upgraded oil pump, 15# oil pressure instead of 3-5# at idle with the old pump. I know I wouldn't go with gear drive set up without upgrading the oil pump, that makes the price difference considerably more. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 1
From: Nebraska
Get a Herko Pro Kit from www.flyingwperformance.com John includes absolutely everything you will need to complete the job. He assembles these kits with mostly HD parts. Everything is labeled and packaged nicely. Makes it really easy on a guy. I just used one this past weekend and recommend the hell out of him.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,263
Likes: 36
From: Georgia Mountains
The banter that the parasitic power drain of the chain drives is greater than the parasitic power drain of gear drives has never been proven. Both require HP to drive them and I would bet a six pack that the parasitic power drain is near the same. Furthermore, if there is a difference, it won't win/lose a race or register on the "butt dyno".
The gear drive manufacturers advertise a 5 hp increase based on the gear drives alone. I think that's a pretty good estimate. I went to a very mild 21G cam when I went to gears and noticed a substantial increase on the "butt" dyno. With the very mild cam, some of that has to be attributed to the gear to gear reduction in friction IMO.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,174
From: Oxford, Nc
Good Advice both ways today!
Just finished my gear drive conversion '00 FLTRSEI, 82,000 miles, and decided on the gear drives because I needed new cams, Andrews 26G, more than I needed a new oil pump. I also ride 20,000 miles a year here in NC so I never wanted to worry about tensioners again. But I have no issues whatsoever with a lower milage bike with still good cams in choosing the hydraulic set up. It's a vast improvement on what I took out of mine.
I had no lash issues so the kit parts fit and it's as quiet as the chains were. I bought the bearing tools on EBAY and sold them again this weekend. Only help I needed was the hydraulic press.
With an '01 either should be a quick install and will last.
Just finished my gear drive conversion '00 FLTRSEI, 82,000 miles, and decided on the gear drives because I needed new cams, Andrews 26G, more than I needed a new oil pump. I also ride 20,000 miles a year here in NC so I never wanted to worry about tensioners again. But I have no issues whatsoever with a lower milage bike with still good cams in choosing the hydraulic set up. It's a vast improvement on what I took out of mine.
I had no lash issues so the kit parts fit and it's as quiet as the chains were. I bought the bearing tools on EBAY and sold them again this weekend. Only help I needed was the hydraulic press.
With an '01 either should be a quick install and will last.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
I'm no mechanic, but I'm pretty sure the friction of gear on chain with spring loaded friction producing tensioners pressed against the chain, are going to "drain" more HP than direct gear to gear contact.
The gear drive manufacturers advertise a 5 hp increase based on the gear drives alone. I think that's a pretty good estimate. I went to a very mild 21G cam when I went to gears and noticed a substantial increase on the "butt" dyno. With the very mild cam, some of that has to be attributed to the gear to gear reduction in friction IMO.
The gear drive manufacturers advertise a 5 hp increase based on the gear drives alone. I think that's a pretty good estimate. I went to a very mild 21G cam when I went to gears and noticed a substantial increase on the "butt" dyno. With the very mild cam, some of that has to be attributed to the gear to gear reduction in friction IMO.
In any event, parasitic loss from either system should not be a consideration for selecting one over the other. When one starts using the red herring HP gain/loss argument for gear drives, that means they just want to go with gears and that's fine; just say so.
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Some of the best for and agin debate here, on the gears versus hydraulic route. I have to say the hydraulic route is the one I would pick for my Dyna, along with a set of mild cams. Doesn't do a high mileage (2nd/3rd bike), so time yet to make a final decision!
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 479
Likes: 1
From: In the flatlands!
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