Do you have a link to them or a pic of them?

 

No link, but you can see them in the service manual.

 

The reason I ask is because I've never seen nor heard of SE breather baffle kits. I know that the newer baffle kit has been updated for 2011 with the new gasket-less design and was wondering if that was what you were referring to.

 

Lots of guys are running the quick install adjustables and haven't had a bit of trouble with them. However, running the stock pushrods guarantees that they wont ever go out of adjustment (assuming the correct length was installed to begin with.) As long as you're doing it yourself, you might as well take the extra hour or so and go through the rocker boxes. Use the 150 bucks you would have paid for the adjustables and put it towards a dyno tune.

 

I put mine in in '09 and when I bought them I was told SE at the parts dept. If they are stock on new bikes they probably started life as SE. They are most likely the same ones you are referring to.

 

I agree with Dawg and B-dude that reusing the stock pushrods are a logical option. I also agree with B-dude that adjustables aren't necessarily problematic. I used them on my Evo and only had one incident when I failed to lock the nut on one--my bad. With the stockers there's no risk of this type of error. Reusing the stockers will add a couple of hours to the job, saving ~$150 in the process, but once it is done it is done. The upside is that they won't ever get out of adjustment, not that adjustables are likely to do so if properly installed. The downside is that if you need to re-enter the cam chest or change lifters you'll need to go through the rocker boxes again, but that's probably unlikely.

As for cam-install kits, I would recommend the Fuel Moto kit for $50. It has everything you'll need including gaskets and o-rings for rocker removable, and even includes the B168 Torrington/Timkin bearings. The SE kit is a rip-off since it covers multiple models and there is quite a bit of waste. E.g., mine had seven bearings and I didn't use any of them.

You'll need a tool to remove/install the inner bearings, and the Beatty tool is likely the best bargain available. You will not need any other special tools for the job, even though the manual specifies two more (alignment and locking tools). These two tools do simplify the job a bit, and if you did a cam job every week you might want to invest in these, but they aren't necessary. BTW you don't need to remove or even disconnect anything on the tank to remove the rockers, but simply need to jack it up as far as it will go. It will not get in the way.

Read the manual and thoroughly familiarize yourself with the procedure. Then go read these two tutorials (here and here). Get your stuff together and make sure you've left no stone unturned, then if you have questions post them here. Someone will be able to help. Lastly, when you finally get into the job, label everything and put all parts on a table in the order disassembled. Some people can throw everything into a box and know where everything goes during reassembly, like those who've done the job many times, but you won't catch me trying that.

 

I might look for a beatty tool or just get it from Advance auto parts rental...i will see,,,I really am looking for ward to doing this myself...Y'all have been great help and encouragement over the past year or so...

 

The stock rods is a good way to go on the budget for sure, the adjustable won't cause you any problems either when you tighten them up you just need to make sure you do just that real good and snug. You will enjoy those cams they are not the cam of the month but I really enjoy mine. Work great for what I am doing two up most of the time 2k to 4k rpms. Read your manual and the links iclick gave you understand them before you start. Most get hung up on the push rod adjustment so really understand that process. You have a lot of great guys already already on your post here your in good hands trust me on how I know!

 

Talk to me when you pick them up today. (Cams) I am 1/2 way through the process. Everything is apart and I can walk you through the process. It is really simple.

 

Easy job. I did my 255 cams last month. I reused my stock pushrods to save the money and the 255 use the same size pushrods as come with your motor.
No need to find top dead center as the the cams only have one timing mark so as long as you have the marks lined up at the start and after you will be in time. I just rotated the motor with the rear tire and transmission in 6th until the litters were at their low points with the timing marks in line.
Mark every thing as it comes out including the chains. The chains so you know which direction they were going so you can keep then going the same direction when you assemble.
Take your time and enjoy.