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I guess there is no home made way to lock the gears right? I was thinking of making something out of JB Weld in ziplock bag???? You know, mix a batch and put it in a Ziplock and mold it to the 2 gears in the bag and let it harden????then grind the back so i can re-insert it at re-assembly? Wide Open thank you...I will see you around 1...I was gonna ride my back down there but i think you have snow there right?....If i find out the roads a clear i will ride.
I guess there is no home made way to lock the gears right? I was thinking of making something out of JB Weld in ziplock bag???? You know, mix a batch and put it in a Ziplock and mold it to the 2 gears in the bag and let it harden????then grind the back so i can re-insert it at re-assembly? Wide Open thank you...I will see you around 1...I was gonna ride my back down there but i think you have snow there right?....If i find out the roads a clear i will ride.
As far as locking the gears go, For disassembly I just tapped the wrench a little and the bolts came loose really easy. For re assembly I have a locking tool I ordered off of Amazon from Heartland $20
I agree with Dawg and B-dude that reusing the stock pushrods are a logical option. I also agree with B-dude that adjustables aren't necessarily problematic. I used them on my Evo and only had one incident when I failed to lock the nut on one--my bad. With the stockers there's no risk of this type of error. Reusing the stockers will add a couple of hours to the job, saving ~$150 in the process, but once it is done it is done. The upside is that they won't ever get out of adjustment, not that adjustables are likely to do so if properly installed. The downside is that if you need to re-enter the cam chest or change lifters you'll need to go through the rocker boxes again, but that's probably unlikely.
As for cam-install kits, I would recommend the Fuel Moto kit for $50. It has everything you'll need including gaskets and o-rings for rocker removable, and even includes the B168 Torrington/Timkin bearings. The SE kit is a rip-off since it covers multiple models and there is quite a bit of waste. E.g., mine had seven bearings and I didn't use any of them.
You'll need a tool to remove/install the inner bearings, and the Beatty tool is likely the best bargain available. You will not need any other special tools for the job, even though the manual specifies two more (alignment and locking tools). These two tools do simplify the job a bit, and if you did a cam job every week you might want to invest in these, but they aren't necessary. BTW you don't need to remove or even disconnect anything on the tank to remove the rockers, but simply need to jack it up as far as it will go. It will not get in the way.
Read the manual and thoroughly familiarize yourself with the procedure. Then go read these two tutorials (here and here). Get your stuff together and make sure you've left no stone unturned, then if you have questions post them here. Someone will be able to help. Lastly, when you finally get into the job, label everything and put all parts on a table in the order disassembled. Some people can throw everything into a box and know where everything goes during reassembly, like those who've done the job many times, but you won't catch me trying that.
Be extremely careful when raising the tank. Make sure you disconnect the fuel line at the left rear of the tank. It is a simple quick disconnect. If you do not disconnect this there is a plastic fitting at the throttle body that will break off. An it is about $60 from harley.
Notgrownup......if you change your mind about going into the rockers (I sure as Heck waffled a lot on the choice) then send me a pm. I am going to list a new unopened set of the SE push rods on the classifieds later today.
Be extremely careful when raising the tank. Make sure you disconnect the fuel line at the left rear of the tank. It is a simple quick disconnect. If you do not disconnect this there is a plastic fitting at the throttle body that will break off. An it is about $60 from harley.
Be extremely careful when raising the tank. Make sure you disconnect the fuel line at the left rear of the tank. It is a simple quick disconnect. If you do not disconnect this there is a plastic fitting at the throttle body that will break off. An it is about $60 from harley.
Good advice. I didn't release the connector and brought it up against the frame, but didn't force it and fortunately didn't break anything. If I was to do it again I would release it first and put some plastic wrap over each bare connector to keep dirt out.
It would also be good to mention that '08 and later tanks are easier to remove than the '07 and earlier with the crossover tube, and for those bikes just pulling the tank off and out of the way may be the best idea. I just don't like hassling with the crossover tube.
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