ok so a local indy said i should put in a set of the s&s 551 gear drive cams with se tapered adjustable push rods, power commander and a new air intake will i notice this with my but dyno??? its a 99 flhtcui stock with boom cans exhaust

 

I like the hydro cam plate much better, because it is a ton more forgiving if your crank moves, if it is even in spec now.
The 95 over 88 will give you some pull add some cams and you should be good.
Who are you using for an INDY?

 

Is he going to do the install on the gear drive or are you?
What did he say about your heads with that combo?
Did he recommend where to set the compression?
Is he going to tune it on the dyno or will you need to find someone else that can tune that combo on the MM fuel injection system?
You do see the $$$ stacking up now don't you?

How many miles do you have on the bike?
Have you owned it since 99? If not how long and how many miles have you put on it?

I am trying to be the voice of frugality here.
Spend your money how you want, but...
If you are gonna throw a bunch of cash at it, go big enough to make real difference!
If you just wanted some added grunt for two up, passing and riding with the boys, it can be done on a budget, especially if you aren't racking up the miles on the bike.

 

a good friend who is a GREAT HD wrench will be doing the work..... they guy that i spoke to about the s&s 551 ge said i could use them with no head work said to get a air cleaner and power commander then a canned map should be good.......does anyone have any suggestions on these cams?

 

ive owned the bike since beginning of last summer and i have put 4k miles on it.....

 

I suggest you talk to someone else, at the very least you will need springs to run the 551 cams with your 99 heads. If you want to run those heads and do a gear drive conversion, you can probably buy a set of 06 heads for the cost of springs and solve that problem with better flowing heads, you would also need new intake clamps for the 06+ heads.

I wish someone else would chime in here as I am thinking you don't like my suggestions.

 

i like all the suggestions...... im just very indecisive....... i think my budget for parts is $1500 or so.... i ride mostly 1 up but do ride 2 up part time.... I rarely see over 4500rpms and i just want more passing power and quicker response....so im not sure if my origanl build thought were to high or not.... thinking maybe just start off with cams, air cleaner, power commander and canned map.... then maybe if thats not enough for the butt dyno then do bb, head work,ect....

 

ok so...........................

 

wow not much info to read ........... any suggestions are greatly appreciated

 

Here's the deal. 1982atm has a '99 FLHTCUI so he is already running 24/37 primary and wants more torque for mostly solo but some two up riding and rarely sees 4500rpms.

Big bore for sure; pure torque upgrade. Contrary to what some have said, lly, the Andrews is a good cam for you application; it's a bagger cam. However, since you have 24/37 primary, the 26 would be a better choice. A BigBoyz street port job along with decking for compression for the 26s is a good idea; easy worth 10TQ.

As for cam drive upgrades and budget being an issue, nothing wrong with retaining the stock cam plate and spring loaded tensioners. The chains are already "polished" from previous mleage so a new set of tensioner shoes should last quite a while. Adding the Baisley pressure bypass spring would be in order if the stock system is retained. Of course, if budget alllows, the hydraulic upgrade is the way to go; no need to go with gear drives. There are two hydraulic setups, the "hybrid" kit that will allow the use of OEM cams or the '07 OEM plate system; both have the new oil pump which makes the upgrade worthwhile.

Another budget item is pushrods, this build sounds like one where future easy access to the cam chest is not an issue in which case stock pushrods will work; save $150 and invest that money in headwork.

So, let's see how that stacks up against your budget.

Bore cylinders 120
SE cast flat top pistons 140 (20% discount price from Zanottis)
Andrews TW26 cams 245
BigBoyz 450
Valve lifters -99B 80 (20% discount price from Zanotti's)
Cam tensioner shoes 85 (20% discount price from Zanotti's)
Inner/outer cam bearnngs 35 (Naachi 6004 C3 outer; Torrington/Timken B148 inner)
Gaskets/oil 100
Slipon mufflers 400 (could be 600 depending on brand)
Tuner 350 (could be more depending on brand)
Dyno tune 300
Total 2305

Kinda shoots holes in your 1500 parts budget doesn't it and that does not include any labor. So, if you start pulling back from that about the only thing you can put off for another time is headwork which gets you back to 1855. You could forego the mufflers but leaving the stockers as a bottle neck is not a good idea but you could drill the baffles and wait until more cash was available; you would also need to retune.

You could do this in phases; saving big bore and headwork for phase II and do everything else in phase I. However, it will cost you more in the long run as you will have to retune plus whatever cost you put on down time. If I were in your shoes, I would wait until I had the cash for the whole enchilada. Comprende?