need input from others on a mild tc95" bb
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Indy
so im thinking cams(s&s510g) pushrods, tuner, and air cleaner for this year then next winter tear down and do bb+head work+......
Last edited by 1982atm; Feb 16, 2011 at 08:59 AM. Reason: wrong cam #
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 334
Likes: 5
From: Central IN
Some reading material fer ya...
Might help ya out some. I'm also thinking of doing some cam work as well going to 95.
I have a thread from another article, but it's on my home PC. Will try to post it tonight.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...tock-tc88.html
BTW, I live on the North side of Indy
I have a thread from another article, but it's on my home PC. Will try to post it tonight.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...tock-tc88.html
BTW, I live on the North side of Indy
Last edited by MareRider; Feb 15, 2011 at 10:58 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,575
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From: Wisconsin
95" twin cams are a rock solid build.
I used new SE jugs with SE cast pistons in my 95". I ported my stock heads and used a 0.030 Cometic head gasket. I'm using an S&S 510G cam. This set up runs really well on the highway.
I put the gear drive cams (w/ adj push rods) in first. This cost me $900 with the dyno tune. The next year I did the big bore, heads and another dyno tune. This cost me $1500. Total in the engine is $2400. I'm happy and the bike runs good. 91 hp 97 tq. I also think there is more in it as my AF is a little fat. This spring I'm going to have Fuel Moto take a crack at the dyno tune so see if they can squeeze another 5 - 7 hp out of this combo.
You could probably do it for $1500 if you did cams and big bore with a canned map from Fuel Moto all at once. Skip the heads and dyno tune.
Now my recommendation is to not skip the heads. The 88 twin cams need a little love in the ports to really flow well.
FYI...you'll see about the same results from Andrews 26, S&S 510 or the SE204 cams. They are all pretty similar.
Good luck.
I used new SE jugs with SE cast pistons in my 95". I ported my stock heads and used a 0.030 Cometic head gasket. I'm using an S&S 510G cam. This set up runs really well on the highway.
I put the gear drive cams (w/ adj push rods) in first. This cost me $900 with the dyno tune. The next year I did the big bore, heads and another dyno tune. This cost me $1500. Total in the engine is $2400. I'm happy and the bike runs good. 91 hp 97 tq. I also think there is more in it as my AF is a little fat. This spring I'm going to have Fuel Moto take a crack at the dyno tune so see if they can squeeze another 5 - 7 hp out of this combo.
You could probably do it for $1500 if you did cams and big bore with a canned map from Fuel Moto all at once. Skip the heads and dyno tune.
Now my recommendation is to not skip the heads. The 88 twin cams need a little love in the ports to really flow well.
FYI...you'll see about the same results from Andrews 26, S&S 510 or the SE204 cams. They are all pretty similar.
Good luck.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 334
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From: Central IN
95 Conversion by Joe Minton American Iron
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From: Indy
ok need info here..... i have a 99 flhtcui so it is a tc88a correct?? and im now going to just do cams, adj push rods, air cleaner and programmer with a canned map then next winter do the bb and head work so my mechanic is suggesting the s&s 510g but im worried about the crank runout the motor has 44k on it what do you guys think
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
ok need info here..... i have a 99 flhtcui so it is a tc88a correct?? and im now going to just do cams, adj push rods, air cleaner and programmer with a canned map then next winter do the bb and head work so my mechanic is suggesting the s&s 510g but im worried about the crank runout the motor has 44k on it what do you guys think
Personally, since this upgrade will be in phases, I would retaiin the stock cam plate, replace the spring tensioners in lieu of gear drives or "hybrid" cam drive system upgrades and spend the saved $$ on getting to 95". Check the tensioners next year when you go to upgrage heads and if funds are available upgrade the cam drive system or leave it alone if the wear is limited and uniform. JMHO
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
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I just did a cam swap a couple weeks ago. I did what djl suggested, Replaced tensioners. With 29,000 on the bike the tensioners were hardly even wore. I went with a set of Head Quarter cams (hq-0034). I had no idea these cams would make that much of a difference in performance, In otherwords, They are friggen awesome. Rite now I'm not even considering head work, That's how impressive these HQ cams are. Been researching cams on here for quite a while. I was set on the Andrews 26 but they seem to run out of steam at around 4000. The HQ cam seems to pull hard through the entire rpm range and throttle response is incredible. Local indy told me on a bagger you want torque, At least that is what you feel when riding. While andrews, SE and S&S are good cams, He preferred Head Quarters or Woods. He's been at it for 40 years. With 40,000 on the clock I would swap out the lifters.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Coppell, TX
I have the Andrews 26 and both the DynoJet dyno and my butt dyno show she pulls hard from 2700 to 5000 with a very flat tq curve. Max tq of 97 at 3700 I've heard great things about the HQ34 also. You have some good options to choose from. Do the heads if you go with something other than the 21s. My build is below.
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Vancouver, Washington
If your using the newer cam plate and oil pump you will also need a plug kit from HD for an oil port on the backside of cam plate. I think 1999 Twin Cam is the only year engine that needs this.I changed my 99 RK to hyd. tensioners,cam plate 95 inch kit and overlooked the plug.On start up bike ran with low oil pressure and lifters rattled, fortunately no damage was done.
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