GLIDE PRO feed back anyone?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,548
Likes: 4
From: Southern California
Agree 100% !
At idle I'm really feeling the difference in the amount of the vibration to the handlebars since I had Jake @ Glide-Pro replace the front motor mount.
No engineer here but I'm guessing at the very least the vibes have been reduced by at least 40%.
Got tired of replacing fairing brackets. Hopefully this is the cure.
At idle I'm really feeling the difference in the amount of the vibration to the handlebars since I had Jake @ Glide-Pro replace the front motor mount.
No engineer here but I'm guessing at the very least the vibes have been reduced by at least 40%.
Got tired of replacing fairing brackets. Hopefully this is the cure.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
From: The Peach State!
The new frames started in 2009. I've got an 07 and went with progressive suspensions touring link. It added a little vibration (very little) but the difference in handling through high speed bumpy sweepers is significant. I've heard the glide pro adds quite a bit of vibration through the frame. Could anyone comment on that? Thanks
Novice
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I'm new on here and found this thread while researching the Glide Pro and Sta Bo. I've spoken to both Jake (GP) and Kevin (STBo) and now i'm really torn on which way to go? They both had great points and it does seem the Glide Pro is a more complete set but also sounds like it creates more vibes? The Sta Bo is about 200.00 cheaper and appears to cure the wobble in turns as well !!
Is the GP really worth the extra $$ ?
Is the GP really worth the extra $$ ?
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 52
From: Here and there
$10 says you over torqued the motor mount. It shouldn't be more than 12 ft/lbs. What Jake had me do was loosen the bolt, then take out for a quick ride around the block. When you get back, re-torque to spec, and you'll notice a world of difference.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
Had an Indy put the Glide Pro swingarm bushing kit and front motor mount on along with the Custom Cycle stainless steel cleave bearings on the inner swingarm as recommended by Jake at Glide Pro. Also went with Progressive Variable Rate Stock Height fork springs on my '91 Electra Glide. Can't say enough good things about the Glide Pro set up as installed.
A little "buzzier" but the trade off for a bike that tracks like it's nailed to the road is an overwhelming advantage. No longer feels like I'm on slippery ice when making sharp turns and when I wiggle the handlebars at speed only the front wheel moves and not the entire bike like it had an articulating joint in it.
Considered the "slap on" solutions and decided to get to the root of the issue with the Glide Pro and would do it again.
Am trading up to a "new" 2007 Road King soon and the Glide Pro set up will be #1 on my list of things to do for sure.
A little "buzzier" but the trade off for a bike that tracks like it's nailed to the road is an overwhelming advantage. No longer feels like I'm on slippery ice when making sharp turns and when I wiggle the handlebars at speed only the front wheel moves and not the entire bike like it had an articulating joint in it.
Considered the "slap on" solutions and decided to get to the root of the issue with the Glide Pro and would do it again.
Am trading up to a "new" 2007 Road King soon and the Glide Pro set up will be #1 on my list of things to do for sure.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Last edited by grbrown; Nov 15, 2012 at 06:04 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
Professor GR
Before you do that read my thread on Bagger Wobble, which I wrote to counter some of the mis-information out there on the many 'stabilizer' kits offered.
IMO with the bolt on stabilizer route you still have the azze end of the bike hanging on 1/4" of soft rubber on either side which still allows movement in some planes as explained by Jake at Glide Pro. It is my conclusion that eliminating the problem at it's source is the most logical and efficient way to go. As some have mentioned with the stabilizer bracket the bushings wear out on those and the wobble commences again.
A difference in vibration may be felt as the engine/trans assy. is now more firmly attached to the swingarm assy. and is not a serious issue or negative by product of the Glide Pro fix IMO.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
As an engineer I am happy that Erik Buell's original concept (I have studied his patents) is sound. I also have a Buell bike and Sporty, both with the rear stabilizer. So I have evaluated that fix and am happy it is the one to go with. The alternative designs may work after a fashion, but don't use the same sound engineering principles. And no, I am not convinced by the claims made on some product's websites. My work is done!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
Well written and informative thread, GR. We'll just have to agree to disagree on this one, my friend. I encourage everyone considering the stabilizer modification to educate themselves on all the options available and the pros and cons of all the products offered.
I get that some bikes come with stabilizers installed and they are engineered ( as you point out) for them with mounting points designed to take the twisting and loads I'm pretty sure unlike an aftermarket add on unit.
To me improving on an existing part from the OEM makes much more engineering sense than adding on parts that the orginal designer did not allow for structurally in the design.
I get that some bikes come with stabilizers installed and they are engineered ( as you point out) for them with mounting points designed to take the twisting and loads I'm pretty sure unlike an aftermarket add on unit.
To me improving on an existing part from the OEM makes much more engineering sense than adding on parts that the orginal designer did not allow for structurally in the design.
Last edited by Tactical111; Nov 15, 2012 at 05:43 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,454
Likes: 2,840
From: Oklahoma
I installed the Glide Pro engine mount when the factory unit began to crack (08 Road King). I notice very little difference, if any. I have never been able to change the oil filter without getting at least some oil on the front mount. The "oil proof" material seemed like a good idea to me. I like the idea of the rear link provided by the Progressive unit. The heim joints got sloppy in about 15,000 miles and the Progressive replacements were expensive. I got some "generic replacements" from this outfit, they have been on for most of this season, around 6000 miles and so far, so good. It has been long enough since I did the job, I don't remember the shaft size or thread pitch, a hardware store should have gadgets to screw your parts into to determine size and pitch. I got the 6000 pound+ pieces with no plastic (one each male and female) and they seem to be doing well. At least the outer end is too close to the exhaust for any plastic pieces in the joint in my opinion. By the way, the heim joint mounting holes are the same size as the threaded shanks so the mounting bolts with you original kit will still work.
http://www.rodendsupply.com/pmx-pfx.php
http://www.rodendsupply.com/pmx-pfx.php
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