I doubt if oil temps will decrease much using something other than Syn3. It is an average full-synthetic oil but is just severely overpriced. I have a friend with a 2000 WG that has >100k on the clock with no engine work except one trip to the dealer for new tensioners at 70k. He's used Syn3 since he bought the bike. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't buy it--but it won't hurt your bike. The price and lack of moly in its formula keeps me away.

 

I thought the oil cooler thermostat was stuck too, BUT the Oil Cooler is HOT to the touch....so I think it is working, waddya think?

 

Not to mention that your temp gauge might not be that accurate. Also, depending on the gauge and where the temp sensor is located, you can get completely different readings.

230 sounds about right for hot weather rides. Use synthetic oil, get an oil cooler (if you do not have one, extra security) and keep putting miles on...

 

You said the gauge is "always at 230°," I presume you mean after warm-up. Is it at that level in traffic and while moving along at moderate highway speeds? You should see fluctuation as speed and air-temperatures change. Is your gauge the fairing-mounted or dipstick type?

Sometime when the temp is showing 230°, take an IR thermometer and measure the temp of the oil pan. Or, when you drain the oil check the temp at the gauge, then while the oil is draining insert a meat thermometer in the drain hole as it drains. The drain pan will cool the oil very fast, so you'll need to check as it drains out. Either method should read near the temperature indicated for the oil, or at least mine does within a few degrees using either method. Also, if you have the dipstick gauge you can check it for accuracy by inserting in some boiling water.

 

I disagree: Follow this:

I am quoting from the 2009 HD Touring manual: Engine Specifications, Section 3.2, Page 3-3, under oil pressure:

"30-38PSI at 2000 RPM and normal operating temperature of 230 DegreesF"

Pleasse notice it is normal not optimal and normal means designed to or expected, hence I take that to mean I could run my engine at 230 degrees all day long, 24/7 and never worry about it. Normal is ok all day long, not "Occasionally" but all the time. Sorry but you are wrong.

 

This temparature occurs after 45 minutes of riding at around 74 degrees or better.
I am in Florida so it has been about 68 to 74 lately...but even when it has been about 62 or less it still runs up to 230, but not higher!

The gauge is a Fairing mounted guage.

 

Unless you just want to drive yourself nuts, don't be alarmed at that 230. When I started cooling my oil, my target was to never break 250 because I believe that is pretty close to the temp threshold of conventional oil, which is what I run. BTW after adding the oil cooler 230 was my normal also, under normal conditions, give or take 10. Just keep an eye on your temps over a longer period of time, if your "normal" riding style and your "normal" riding environment don't produce temps higer than 230, thats pretty good for any oil or mechanical concerns. If you want to improve rider comfort you might want it cooler than that. If you still want to run cooler for whatever reason, you'll have to do something diferent. You also need to observe more than just duration and ambient temperature to draw any conclusions. Add RPMs and speed to your data set. I've found that RPMs is the most influential variable, barring tune condition. You can see hot oil temps in the winter or cool oil temps in the summer, just depends how hard you are running. Most importantly knock down some miles and enjoy it.

 

I wouldn't worry about the temp if your riding under normal conditions. If your running with syn 3 the breakdown temp is 300* and if your not at least getting up to 210* you are not burning off any condensation which will eventually do more harm internally. These engines are built to handle these temperture fluxuations.

 

Water (condensation) evaporates at any temperature, even frozen. It will disipate faster at higher temps but to say you are not burning off any condensation below 210 is not necessarily true.

 

I guess "not burning off any" was too strong, sorry not enough is that better!!