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That's a pretty bold statement, sure about that? Ever hear of friction modifiers?
You're right. Synthetics have better additive packages and are indeed "slicker," or perhaps more accurately generate less friction. This is why many recommend not using synthetics in the primary because the clutch disks need some friction to work properly.
Synthetic oil also adheres to metal surfaces much longer, making cold starts much easier on the mechanical components. Most wear on an engine occurs the first few seconds of a cold start, so more lubrication is better. About 15 years ago I contracted on some projects with Albemarle Corp., who at the time made additives for synthetic oil, and one was an oil test using two identical cars. Both ran 30k in almost identical conditions, one with fossil oil and the other with synthetic, and after pulling the oil pans and intake manifolds the fossil oil car had noticeable amounts of sludge already building up while the synthetic engine did not. Sludge is the result of oil oxidation (structural breakdown) and accumulates as mileage increases. Heat is also a contributor to oxidation and does so at an exponential rate as heat increases.
Several hours after disassembly the parts from the synthetic oil car still looked wet while the fossil-oil car appeared very dry.
From what I have read and seen, Most temperature gauges from HD VARRY from one extreme to another... I would check your oil temp. with a different gauge...
That's a very good point. I double-checked my fairing-mounted gauge using both an IR (laser) thermometer (exterior pan temp) and a meat thermometer (drained hot oil) and the readings were within a few degrees of each other. Those with dipstick gauges can boil some water and check the gauge's accuracy at that temperature very easily.
As far as oil, SIN3 is a SIN(.) It IS NOT a full synthetic as read in another post here... It is a Blend..
HD makes three different engine oils: HD360, Synthetic Blend, and Syn3. The Blend is what you say, but Syn3 is a blend of three fully-synthetic stocks. None are poor quality, though not the best either, and all are severely overpriced, IMO.
Until oil temp gets over 212, water can't be vaporized and removed though the breather. Although there shouldn't be much, it is best to operate at a temp that removes it. +1 for 215-230, with no issues until over 300.
Until oil temp gets over 212, water can't be vaporized and removed though the breather. Although there shouldn't be much, it is best to operate at a temp that removes it. +1 for 215-230, with no issues until over 300.
Oil doesn't need to be 212° to vaporize. Please read my reply #34 on p. 4, which explains this.
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