Hello everyone,I searched for an answer to my question but couldn't find the result to my particular situation.So if anyone can help thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance for your help.
My question is fairly simple. I have done this swap on a Dyna and a Fatboy but am about to do this on my 09 FLHT. On the Dyna swap I put in a lowering kit so I opened the fork tubes and changed the spring(s) while doing the chrome front sliders. Threading the caps back on was a chore to say the least.
So before I did the Fat Boy I bought a Fork service kit from Motion Pro to help do the job.
The Fat Boy I pretty much did the same way.I opened the tubes up,then re-compressed the springs with a tool designed just for the job.
The problem with my FLHT is I don't appear to have the access on my FLHT to use this tool because it uses the triple tree as a platform to compress the spring and re-thread the cap.It uses the upper triple tree mount as a base,you put the fork tube into the lower triple tree mount and use the space between the upper and lower clamp to collapse the spring and start threading the fork cap.It works like a charm but you have to have full access to the tree.
I had someone tell me I could change the sliders on my FLHT and not have to take the top of the fork tube off.He basically said that the spring is trapped inside the tube and as long as you don't open it you won't have to compress the spring which of course is correct.Then there wouldn't be a giant hassle trying to compress the spring back down to get the top cap back on.
So,since my memory is rather poor.When you take the top nut off the fork to get them out of the triple tree, can you add oil to the inside of the tube through the threaded hole in the cap that still in the fork tube? Or if you don't do that way, the guy I was talking to said to just put in in the drain hole.The drain hole filling sounds like it would work but how could you pump the slider enough to disperse the air trapped inside the tube?
Any help would be appreciated.
I'm sure that as many people who have done this swap would know why we take the cap off and remove the spring out of the tube but if your not lowering the front end,I don't see why you have to take them out.What obvious part of this am I not seeing?
Thanks

 

On both my touring bikes when I installed chrome sliders I removed the upper cap and took the springs out. Probably didn't have to do that, but it's not a big deal to compress the spring enough to thread the cap back on. Sitting here thinking about it....not really sure there's any reason to take the cap off but I like to thoroughly clean everything. In your fork air is going to naturally rise to the top, so getting air out is not an issue.

 

The only reason I didn't want to open the top of the fork tube and have to take the spring out is because the 09 later touring bikes are supposed to have a heavier spring in them than earlier model bikes.
There are some rather entertaining stories of what some members have done to re-cap the fork tube during reassembly.There are a few pics of tools members have made to assist them in reinstalling the caps as well.
I was just wondering out loud so to speak,why are the fork tubes opened at all if your not putting in a lowering kit or putting in a valve(Race Tech or Ricor).If you are only changing the sliders why do all the extra work?
Thanks

 

Yes, you can add oil from the top. You won't be able to acurately measure the distance of the oil to the top of the tube because that is meant to be done with the spring out and the fork completely compressed. You can add the recommended amount of oil but you may want to have a way to take some out if you are too stiff. I used the motion pro fork level tool to do that. So add some oil, Use the weight of the bike to work the forks, repeat until all oil added. Compress the forks with the weight of the bike and add the caps. If it is too stiff (not through the range of motion but at the end of the fork motion, it will feel like you have reduce the length of the fork travel) take a little oil (5-10 CCs) out of each tube at a time.

The caps with the stock springs aren't bad if you have a friend to help.

 

Don't remove the springs. There are ways to add the correct amount of oil. I just bought a measuring cup and added the exact same amount to both forks. It worked great. If you have a funnel and hose to get to the hole in the caps, you don't even have to remove the upper fork tubes from the triple clamps. The springs on the 09 up bikes are VERY hard to compress.

 

to just change the sliders,take the allen bolt out of the bottom and fork seal retainer out,they slide rite off..add oil thru the top cap..it isnt that hard to take the spring retainer off and put it back on..just hold the tube up with ..a friend or??put a wrench on the cap,hold down and turn..i put the cap upside down on the floor in a wrench,push the tube down on it and twist..

 

Last summer I installed the front fork lowering kit in my '09 Road Glide, and yes, I can attest to the fact that the reinstalling the top fork caps were a BITCH of a job! I got my next door neighbor to help with the chore. He pulled up on the upper fork tube and twisted while I forced the top tube cap down against the spring pressure. You only need to get the threads to grab a turn or two, but man, what a J. O. B. !!!
I’ve never had as much trouble with fork springs before.

 

Update: Ended up going to the local HD shop.Since I was going to go there to buy the fork oil anyway, I ask how much to change the sliders out.The labor was $55 so I just had them do it.And the Motion Pro fork spring kit I have had a sweet low profile fork cap socket so I was able to torque the cap properly.All together with the $170 I paid for the complete front chrome kit and the $86 I spent for seals,oil and labor,I have right at $250 invested and it is well worth the cost.Plus it kept me out in the man cave for most of a day.