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I've talked to Jamie regarding his 107" which comes in around 10:2:1 if I remember correctly. I really would like to do headwork either way, but the big bore is on the fence.... I just fired off an email to Bobby to see what he thinks I should do. I'll let everyone know what he says! Thanks everyone for helping me out with my dilemma!
so my next question is what comp should we land on?? My builder is thinking a little over 10.... I'm definately not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to this!! Maybe I'll give Bobby a call. I wanted to avoid a big bore but maybe I'll just pull the cylinders and get them bored and add bigger pistons. I absolutely don't want to get into the bottom end, so what bore/pistons would accomodate the headwork?
Yes,everything must match to achieve the total package.Heads,pistons,& cam must all match the compression to get the biggest results.Then you have to pair all that with a good exhaust, & tuning device to complete the package.Mr.Woods knows his **** ,& will definitely steer you in the right direction.Mr.Baisley too.He is the guru of headwork.Both will also,make you open up your check book!!!
Yes,everything must match to achieve the total package.Heads,pistons,& cam must all match the compression to get the biggest results.Then you have to pair all that with a good exhaust, & tuning device to complete the package.Mr.Woods knows his **** ,& will definitely steer you in the right direction.Mr.Baisley too.He is the guru of headwork.Both will also,make you open up your check book!!!
Speaking of checkbooks dont forget about the additional cost of adding compression releases. The manual CR's are cheaper to install due to the cost of the equipment and labor, but the automatic compression releases are better to have eliminates the "forget to push" factor.
You should be talking to Jamie, his kits flat out work, & he has the dyno sheets to prove it. Don't ask advice from 10 different people & get 10 opinions, get the advice from the person you're buying the kit from, especially when they have the good reputation that Fuel Moto has. I'd say while you have it apart you might as well go the 107 route, the dyno sheets on that are really great. ASK JAMIE!
Stock thru 11:1 C/R. Only do pistons etc if you are going to make it a 103". It is aldready a kick *** bolt in cam as it is with no compression change needed. Just a function of money as to how fast you want to go. Bob Wood
If he is running a stock motor the static(9 ish) is already low.Adding a bigger cam with a 41 intake close will make the dynamic comp even lower(due to the bleed off).The bottom end will suck.The bike will be a pig!! If you want it to run right you better add some comp(Cams & comp must match).Call Mr.Woods & ask him what he thinks your comp should be at.I bet he will tell you to raise it.His cams love comp ,& boy due they hit hard!!! Ask me how I know!!! I have had other cams & they don't compare to his!!! I junked my T-Man 662-2 in favor of his TW 68 ,& it was the best thing i ever did!!!!
We have installed hundreds of of TW6-6 and TW-555 cams with stock compression with excellent results and every single customer bike I have ever tuned has recieved a before and after chart. We generally install a dyno tune a few sets a week and have had nothing but happy customers, they do not run like a "pig", they actually run strong right off the bottom. Also remember that a bolt in cam in only as good as the rest of the combination, as the exhaust and tune also play a huge part in the equasion. Adding compression does certainly work well in many applications as does increasing the port velocity, you can continue to add compression and see increases in output as long as you have the components, fuel, and tune to support it. In the end it really all depends where you want to end up and what your budget allows. Did I mention that I was involved in developing the TW-555 cam with Bobby? That good ol' boy knows his stuff
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