That's cool, Dave. I've seen other guys mention that they also wouldn't grind but I never seen a reason why not. I've worked in the body shop industry for almost 30 yrs. as a bodyman/painter so I do know my way around cars/motorcycles etc. not to mention working with metals. Common sense tells me that if you can smooth out a little lip without comprising anything to avoid removing more parts, gaskets, etc. etc. then that's the way I'm going. Nothing wrong with going by the book but sometimes it not 100% necessary to get you from point A to point B.


Either way the upgrade is definitely worth the effort regardless of which method is used. I'd still like to hear a good reason for not grinding because after doing it, I sincerely cannot think of one. I guess I don't want someone that is contemplating doing this to be scared off from doing the job themselves because they don't want to mess with removing the inner primary. Or by doing it with the method I, among others, have used just because someone states that they wouldn't grind the lip... without giving a legit reason why it shouldn't be done. We can agree to disagree on this one. Ride safe, Larry P.

 

There are a number of different casting molds that HD has because some need more material than others removed and some you can even get rotor off without grinding. I took my inner primary off a couple times without grinding but i will remove the material the next time i take it apart, Why i didn't do it the first time is beyond me. There would be no reason not to do it unless you didn't have the proper tools to do it. Issue with your stator or replace output shaft seal would be a much simpler repair without disturbing the inner. I ground the grooves in the spokes of the compensating sprocket with a dremel and i have no more rusty fretting coming out of that now. The two SE compensators before look like **** without that mod. I haven't been sitting up at night worrying about the balancing that i probably threw out grinding the grooves by hand. It breaks i'll fix it simple as that.

 

Really appreciate the info with pictures. Will do my own now.

 

Looks like a faily cheap upgrade, thanks for the detailed pics. I will be grinding myself, looks much easier and the little bit of lip your ginding doesnt look like it will affect anything. If I hadn't seen this thread and was just doing the upgrade my self I think I would have figured grinding would have been the way I would have gone anyways.

 

Excellent write up and photo's. I've copied and pasted the thread into MS Word and saved the file. I've done a few projects like this and posted here...There will be many guys who appreciated your taking the time. I am one of them. Thank You.

 

You're very welcome. I know I like these type threads as well... helps you visualize what it takes to do the job.

 

After much research I got a carbide bit and cut the grooves on the back side of the pulley. After cleaning everything up I put it all in the engine and started torqueing the the bolt.
Clicked at 100 so backed off a full turn. Tightened back to the 100 ft/lbs, click. Tightened to 120, click. Reset for 140 and started tightening, SNAP. Broke the bolt. INSIDE the crank.
Managed to drill out and checked with several HD shops. No part in stock. Went to local bolt/nut/screw distributor to see about another bolt. No problem but in the process was told the bolt that comes with the SE compensator is imported, from CHINA, and may not be as strong as an American made bolt. Was told the the American bolt would withstand 165 ft/lbs. Went back to shop and installed reaching 140 ft/lbs very easily.
Go figure.
Made in America motorcycle but parts imported. Might buy metric next time even though I love the Harley. Just tired of the BS trying to improve "updates" that HD won't back up.

 

Excellent write-up! Anyone know the part number for the kit?
Thanks

 

What's the torque spec's on the primary cover screws?

 

how did they determine bolt was chinese?