Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: southeastern, ma
did this today. the OP pictures were great! took me the afternoon, but i really took my time. grinding wheel on dremel did the job. no mention of clutch adjustment afterwards, but i am guessing that was a given.....or was it?
tin
tin
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
There's no need to adjust the clutch if you don't loosen the clutch jam nut on the adjuster shaft.
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
Last edited by davessworks; Apr 3, 2011 at 09:38 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Outstanding post, my question is, when did this problem begin? I have a 2004 and have noticed some of the symptoms of a comp problem. Shudder when de-accelerating slow cranking and not a bang but a noise when cranking/starting. Is my bike in need of this mod?
Thanks
Ride Safe watch for those road hazards
Thanks
Ride Safe watch for those road hazards
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
There's no need to adjust the clutch if you don't loosen the clutch jam nut on the adjuster shaft.
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Redmond, WA
There's no need to adjust the clutch if you don't loosen the clutch jam nut on the adjuster shaft.
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
I've done 5 of these now and I've not dremeled a single one. It is a minor extra step to pull the inner primary and replace the seals if you are worried that loosening the 5 inner primary bolts may cause the inner primary to leak. If it were my bike I wouldn't want to grind the housing.
Also it's a very good idea to pull the clutch and compensator sprocket at the same time. It avoids straining the chain. While some may find they can remove one without the other once the compensator sproket is removed there's no way to lock the clutch so that the clutch can be removed. Too many short cuts . . .
Last edited by oldbagr; Apr 3, 2011 at 10:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
My '09 Ultra was the fifth one that Dave has done; he replaced my OE comp with the SE comp yesterday afternoon. While we had the clutch exposed I replaced the OE clutch spring with a heavier spring (98A) which should have been done when the dealer did the 103" kit installation. The OE comp looked like new with 7,000 miles on the bike. I wasn't having any problems with the OE comp but wanted to make sure that I wouldn't have any issues in the near future. There were no metal shavings or any other contaminents in the primary; I was surprised how clean everything looked. I have been running Syn 3 in all three holes and will continue doing so based on how well everything looked after 7,000 miles. Dave is very meticulous and treated my bike like it was his own. He replaced all the gaskets and seals even though he could have saved a little time by reusing some of the existing ones. Like Dave, I would not grind away any of the casing just to save a little time and, I'm not convinced that it is really any quicker given the cleanup required as well as the grinding time. The bike definitely pulls smoother in the lower rpms and the new clutch spring takes care of some higher rpm slippage that I was experiencing. Thanks Dave!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Just curious why you think grinding the case is not a good idea. It's plenty thick, you don't hardly remove any material and it's not a pressurized housing. It just holds the primary fluid and you don't touch the mating surfaces so I can't see any problems with doing this. I'd would do it this way every time, nothing wrong with short cuts if all you're doing is avoiding unnecessary procedures. Absolutely no reason to touch the clutch if all you're doing is replacing the comp.
Removing the clutch - again, a simple step that may well save trouble. Hard to believe that Harley recommends removing as a set(compensator, chain and clutch) if there's no point in doing it that way. Lateral strain on the chain could occur. If you look through this thread I believe one poster did say they couldn't install the SE compensator until they'd removed the clutch.
Of course if you want to avoid grinding you have to remove the clutch. I guess it's all a matter of choice and I'm not telling anyone how they should do it, rather I'm saying how I prefer to do it.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Why wouldn't you grind? What is it that concerns you? I can guarantee you that the less than 5 minutes it took to stuff the rags, grind the case and wipe up the few bits that weren't caught by the shop vac is more than a little time savings vs. pulling the clutch and inner primary + the reassembly and adjustments needed to do it the long way. Both ways will accomplish the exact same results. I just can't see doing more than needed to get the same job done. It's not like grinding is a "hack" way of doing it. So again, just so I'm clear...what are the concerns with removing a small amount of material to make the job quicker and with less parts R & I 'ed?
My 08 RK does this, but not when cold
The starter hooks up just fine when sitting overnight with no kickback or bad noises. 10 minutes of riding time and the restart sounds like the starter wants to throw itself off the bike. I pulled the primary and the teeth on the starter and clutch starter ring are good. I put dialectic grease on batt, starter and engine ground after cleaning and trickled the batt, too.
I ran across and article by Joe Minton indicating this could be a valve bleed down spacing issue and / or a timing issue.
I run a Ness big sucker with a 2/1 Rhinehart. I removed my microfuel processor to weed that out.
Bike runs well, just starts bad after a slight warmup.
Sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum - I am new to the computer stuff. please put in correct forum or start new topic. thanks, I don't like just swapping parts for fun or practice.
I ran across and article by Joe Minton indicating this could be a valve bleed down spacing issue and / or a timing issue.
I run a Ness big sucker with a 2/1 Rhinehart. I removed my microfuel processor to weed that out.
Bike runs well, just starts bad after a slight warmup.
Sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum - I am new to the computer stuff. please put in correct forum or start new topic. thanks, I don't like just swapping parts for fun or practice.