Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
None, the new compensator bolt comes with loctite already in place.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
I'm replacing my SE compensator soon. While in there, going to install a new clutch basket and a new starter. I have all the parts already. Since Im pulling almost everything out, do you folks think I still need to do the grinding gig. Harley didn;t have to do any grinding to get it in there and I don't think dealerships are grinding vs charging the service plan the 98 bucks an hour to pull out what ever needs to be pulled out.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 190
Likes: 2
From: Central MA
I'm replacing my SE compensator soon. While in there, going to install a new clutch basket and a new starter. I have all the parts already. Since Im pulling almost everything out, do you folks think I still need to do the grinding gig. Harley didn;t have to do any grinding to get it in there and I don't think dealerships are grinding vs charging the service plan the 98 bucks an hour to pull out what ever needs to be pulled out.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
If you're pulling everything out already including the clutch and starter it's only another five minutes to pull the inner primary. If you do that you don't need to grind. Might as well pull it since you're going that far. At that point you'll need to decide if you need to replace any one or or all of these: inner primary gasket, transmission shaft seal and the seals on the inner primary bolts. Only downside is if you ever need to pull the compensator again you're in the same situation... to grind or pull everything apart.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 757
Likes: 4
I just put mine back together and filled the primary with Redline MTL so we'll see how that works out.
Anyway, what a huge difference. As soon as I started the bike I knew it was different. No explosion on startup-the starter bang is gone! I took it for a ride and the low speed "bag of bolts" sound is gone too. I just took it for a short ride but so far I love it.
I ended up grinding away a little more in order to get the SE part on but it wasn't too much.
Thanks for the tutorial. I agree with the others its an easy job.
Anyway, what a huge difference. As soon as I started the bike I knew it was different. No explosion on startup-the starter bang is gone! I took it for a ride and the low speed "bag of bolts" sound is gone too. I just took it for a short ride but so far I love it.
I ended up grinding away a little more in order to get the SE part on but it wasn't too much.
Thanks for the tutorial. I agree with the others its an easy job.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 299
From: midwest
2010 FLHRC, 9k mi.
Have been getting some pronounced, intermittent bang/knocks from primary. Dealer went in & found nothing wrong, so I paid for the comp & installed today.
No big deal to do, took 1 1/2 hours. The chain is submerged in oil at the point where the grinding took place as is the clutch basket, so I see no problem with removing the material.
I'll update on the noise after a week or so - by then it will have done it or not.
If the noise is gone I'm going to see about reimbursement for expenses.
Have been getting some pronounced, intermittent bang/knocks from primary. Dealer went in & found nothing wrong, so I paid for the comp & installed today.
No big deal to do, took 1 1/2 hours. The chain is submerged in oil at the point where the grinding took place as is the clutch basket, so I see no problem with removing the material.
I'll update on the noise after a week or so - by then it will have done it or not.
If the noise is gone I'm going to see about reimbursement for expenses.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Not so. Yes the compensator bolt comes with Loctite in place but the question was what needs to be Loctite'd for the whole job. You need to reapply Loctite to the Inner Primary bolts (if you loosen them) as well as the outer primary bolts. If you go strictly by the book you are actually supposed to replace the inner primary bolts - but I know nobody that does so.
You also are supposed to loctite the clutch bolt (the one that holds the clutch to the transmission shaft). Again - if you remove it.
Finally - although nobody says you have to - it doesn't hurt to put Loctite on the chain tensioner bolts.
Make sure you use the correct Loctite for each application.
You also are supposed to loctite the clutch bolt (the one that holds the clutch to the transmission shaft). Again - if you remove it.
Finally - although nobody says you have to - it doesn't hurt to put Loctite on the chain tensioner bolts.
Make sure you use the correct Loctite for each application.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
Not so. Yes the compensator bolt comes with Loctite in place but the question was what needs to be Loctite'd for the whole job. You need to reapply Loctite to the Inner Primary bolts (if you loosen them) as well as the outer primary bolts. If you go strictly by the book you are actually supposed to replace the inner primary bolts - but I know nobody that does so.
You also are supposed to loctite the clutch bolt (the one that holds the clutch to the transmission shaft). Again - if you remove it.
Finally - although nobody says you have to - it doesn't hurt to put Loctite on the chain tensioner bolts.
Make sure you use the correct Loctite for each application.
You also are supposed to loctite the clutch bolt (the one that holds the clutch to the transmission shaft). Again - if you remove it.
Finally - although nobody says you have to - it doesn't hurt to put Loctite on the chain tensioner bolts.
Make sure you use the correct Loctite for each application.
The reason I posted the tutorial in the first place was to show how simple it was to for a do-it-yourselfer to tackle this project. I didn't invent this method, I merely took the time to do a detailed write up to hopefully help some guys that were on the fence about doing it themselves understand that it's do-able at home. Some guys are intimidated by removing the clutch, inner primary, etc. etc. (I do agree it's not that complicated to do) so this method simplifies the comp. swap with a minimal amount of parts being R&I'd. I work on cars for a living and know my way around bikes as well.... I'd do the grind method vs. "by the book" method every time. Why remove more parts than needed. Smoothing out a little rib/ridge on the case won't effect anything, I'm 100% sure about that. There's always more than one way to skin a cat, in this thread we're grinding the skin off
Thanks, Larry
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Surely you jest. Look - I don't care whether you grind or not. Your write up is very nice and I'm sure plenty of people have done the job this way. Personally I really appreciate it when someone goes to the trouble to document how to do a job like this. Furthermore I'm all for saving time and money. Personally I don't believe it's necessary to change the outer primary cover gasket for instance and have done this job several times each time reusing it and saving about $36 per.
I'm posting here to correct a clear mis-statement on your part in responding to the post:
and again:
The manual is very clear about this and for good reason. The bolts can and will come loose.
Screw this up and your primary may well develop a serious leak.
Specifically the manual states:
Apply a drop of Loctite Threadlocker 243 (blue) (Part no. 9964297). Install nine short (1) and four (2) primary cover fasteners in positions shown. Snug fasteners.
It then goes on to show a torque sequence.
On another note, look, it's a nice thread and I applaud you for starting it - but do you really need to police it too?
If you care that much about where I post perhaps you should get a job as a moderator.
I'm posting here to correct a clear mis-statement on your part in responding to the post:
Screw this up and your primary may well develop a serious leak.
Specifically the manual states:
Apply a drop of Loctite Threadlocker 243 (blue) (Part no. 9964297). Install nine short (1) and four (2) primary cover fasteners in positions shown. Snug fasteners.
It then goes on to show a torque sequence.
On another note, look, it's a nice thread and I applaud you for starting it - but do you really need to police it too?
Originally Posted by bowa18
No sense confusing guys with another method of doing the job (that would be better served in another thread showing the other method and all that's required to complete the job in that fashion). With the grind method outlined in this write up nothing needs loctite as the new comp bolt has it in place already.
Last edited by davessworks; Aug 21, 2011 at 02:24 AM.