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I just want to add my thanks to the original poster, bowa18. I put in my SE compensator yesterday and this thread made the job easier.
Thanks Man!
++1. I did the job a few months back and it definately made the job easier. The only thing i did with the service manual was make it dirty thumbing through it then had a brainstorm, i printed this thread with pics and low and behold my problems were solved. This for me anyway has been one of the best threads. Thanks
I just installed my SE Compensator along with a chrome inner primary last evening, and am not sure if I have something wrong. To those of you who have done this, is it normal to be able to rotate by hand when in neutral the compensator back and forth so that it goes partially up and down the ramps in each direction? Everything is tight and torqued to specs and lines up fine. The other thing I notice related to this rotation is a clunk when turning off the bike as the compensator unloads. Any suggestions? Tx.
Re-read the instructions that came with the compensator. I believe at the end of the instructions it says a small amount of play, letting you rotate the sprocket a small amount by hand is normal. The key here is "small amount". The clunk would bother me.
I would recheck my install. About the only things I can think that could go wrong is putting the springs in wrong or putting the thrust washer in wrong.
Thanks guys for the tip, I felt that there was not enough pre-load and found that I had one of the middle washers turned the wrong way. Once reversed, everything is tighter and is good to go!
I'm goingt to change the compensator soon--one question-- how much wear on the tensioner is acceptable? I have over 40,000 on my 08. should I change the tensioner along with the compensator? My Ultra will not start when hot and has alot of noise coming from the primary.
I have absolutely no idea how long the tensioner will run. The question is, do you want to open the primary again in, say, 20,000 miles to change the tensioner or just do it now and be done with it? I strongly suspect all of the trouble and noise you have now is related to the compensator, not the tensioner. If a source for the tensioner is fairly close and the scoot is not needed for the trip, look at the one you have now and then decide or buy it and see if you can return it if not needed.
well ...my 09 street glide has 11K miles on it,.. the tentioner looked like new.. my 08 softail has 20K miles & only had a small scuff where the chain was riding.. looked in very good shape... so I let it run..
It is amazing what a difference this made to my 2010 FLHTK with 13k miles. I never liked the noise in the primary from day one, and had the dealer look at it 2x under warranty, only to say it's normal they all make these noises. It sounds and feels like a totally different bike with the new compensator, the best $200 I could have spent!
I used the same process as in this thread. I found it necessary to use the dremel tool grind some material off the case so the rotor would come out, but no worries, this is easy and only took five minutes. Wear eye protection and take your time.
To avoid any misadventures like I had be sure you set aside or throw away all the old parts before you install with the new. I accidentally picked up the original compensator bolt which is shorter than the new one. The result was heart stopping.
The shorter bolt will only catch the first two or three threads in the shaft, and when you start putting any torque on the bolt, you will strip and pull out the first two internal threads in the shaft. I got out of this jam by carefuly using a tap to clean up the mess. My message is learn from my stupid mistake so you won't have to experience one of your own. Be sure you don't mix up the bolts.
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