Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 76
From: Pelham Alabama
This is a very informative guide and I will be using it in a week or two. I have one question for those of you that have done this.
I have one inch foot rest extensions on my 07 RG. The bottom front screw on the primary cover is 1 1/2 inches from the main mount. I can easily get an allen wrench on this but not a torque wrench. Is this enough room to get that screw out and back in? I use a torque wrench on everything I can get to, but I think I can get that one back in and close enough on the torque. It will save a little time anyway. If it won't, I will just have to take it off. Thanks for any help.
I have one inch foot rest extensions on my 07 RG. The bottom front screw on the primary cover is 1 1/2 inches from the main mount. I can easily get an allen wrench on this but not a torque wrench. Is this enough room to get that screw out and back in? I use a torque wrench on everything I can get to, but I think I can get that one back in and close enough on the torque. It will save a little time anyway. If it won't, I will just have to take it off. Thanks for any help.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
The fretting I am referring to was the cast area ramp that the v-shaped limbs of the compensator ride up giving the cushion to the surges of the engine. Guess you were refering the the harden steel upon steel bore. Remember this area in the bore only get around 40 degree total movement. I has some scuffing there at 40K but it did not hurt anything since the fit between the two parts was still good. Any Harley since the TC has the ability to total lock this up on a heavy acceleration from a lot of throttle and heavy clutch unloading. Lot of people think a compensator is for protection and it does provide some but it's mainly to cushion the impulse from the lump run system of a Harley. The go way back. Protection is why Harley went to the cushion drive on the big cruisers. We used sintered bronze bushing in a lot of applications in a non oil bath environment all over ships but it is a very weak material. Works OK in a non shock type of application.
The maximum effort applied to the hardened steel over steel bore is the limit of chain rupture, so the stress is relatively low. 40° oscillations of a non regenerating contact line/surface call for a very high shear strength oil film or "self lubricating" metal pair like TOKAT bronze against polished steel.
42 years ago I made a set of piston compressor bushings from this outstanding bronze alloy. I wish I could use it in my transmission today. BTW I think our connecting rods have Bz bushings to connect to the crankshaft pins. The compensator is floating, so I wouldn't compare to a shock type application; reaction to shock is filtered/dampened by the inertia of the chain.
I'm impatient to see what the "RonRichard" proposal will be.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
We can repair and modify most of our stuff, its just that our reflexes have been spoiled by easy spending. Good engineering practice in a friction device is to avoid rubbing two materials that can be welded together by friction and/or pressure.
Rocket Science and millwrights survive because these problems are served everyday
Rocket Science and millwrights survive because these problems are served everyday
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Rogers AR
This has been one of the best mods I have done to my 08 Fatboy. I had taken it back several times to the dealer for the hot start issue ...clanging and banging when it did not start...it was getting so bad that when in a group of people I was amost hesitant in starting it..some times it would sound like the bottom has dropped out. Dont believe when the dealer says thats normal. Bowa18 did a Great job explaining and the pictures were a great help. Changing the compensator made not only a difference in the starting of the bike but also stopped much of the clattering when using the clutch during slow speed manunevers...also when accelerating in a higher gear the clattering is gone too. After seeing the original compensator and the new one there is no comparison between the two. If you have or are having issues with the kicking back when starting ...this so far has corrected my bike. I do have the big bore kit on it 103cu in ....I paid for my compennsator out of my pocket and would do it again knowing the difference it made...It should be something the dealer should recognize and change under warranty or at least at a reduced cost. It does make a big difference.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Danville, KY
I like it!!
I have had a SE compensator since last fall just waiting for time to install. Well yesterday was the day. Took me right at 3 hrs. and it was time well spent. Took it out today for a 60 mile checkout ride. 1st thing noticed.. no more clanking and growling when hitting the start button. 2nd thing... no more clanking when going from power to a throttle down transition. 3rd thing... clutch engaging/ shifting up or down much smoother. So anyone contemplating, considering, or on the fence trying to decide if it is worth it, let me tell you. I Love It. Makes riding much more enjoyable.
Should add this was on my Ultra also filled with Klotz Primary Synthetic Oil.
Should add this was on my Ultra also filled with Klotz Primary Synthetic Oil.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 369
Likes: 100
From: Katy, TX
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Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 4
From: Canada
Confused on this.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 9
From: Woodinville, WA
Only a clearance problem when the inner primary is bolted down. Rotor installed first, then inner primary. You can upgrade your compensator without grinding by loosening or removing the inner primary. I personally prefer this approach but each to their own.