Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 979
Likes: 351
From: Wisconsin
I changed my compensator last night to the SE compensator. Went pretty well, however I wasn't as neat with the rags and towels around the rotor as I would have liked. Ended up removing the stator to make sure I cleaned out all the aluminum bits, wasn't a big deal though.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 609
Likes: 14
From: Mount Airy, MD
I changed my compensator last night to the SE compensator. Went pretty well, however I wasn't as neat with the rags and towels around the rotor as I would have liked. Ended up removing the stator to make sure I cleaned out all the aluminum bits, wasn't a big deal though.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
I changed my compensator last night to the SE compensator. Went pretty well, however I wasn't as neat with the rags and towels around the rotor as I would have liked. Ended up removing the stator to make sure I cleaned out all the aluminum bits, wasn't a big deal though.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
I started out using a carbide deburring bit in a high speed die grinder but it clogged up with material quick. Went to the hardware store and found a Wolfcraft conical rotary rasp, says for use on wood, it worked great on the aluminum. Only cost about $3.50 and worked great in a drill.
I didn't get much time to ride but I can say hot starts are better, and shifting is less of a clunk/bang, especially neutral to 1st and 2nd to 1st.
Thanks for the how-to bowa18.
Banned
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From:
You're welcome! Glad to hear you did it yourself. I'm extremely happy with the SE compensator.... I've got to put a few thousand miles on it so far and the bike really feels so much better at slow, creeping along speeds where you have to feather the clutch a bit. No more shudder. Only wish HD would have put it in to start with, oh well I'm glad I did it.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
so I got to buy my own.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: WV
For those that got the dealer to do the replacement under warrantee, what did you have to tell them? I am planning on talking to my dealer soon about the SE upgrade but want to make sure my wording is right to get it under warrantee.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
Oh yeah-- they know alright--but to them it isn't an "issue". I agree- shame on them....
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: ohio
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6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Case shaving
I installed the SE Compensator last night. I removed the whole inner case and the clutch assembly. It's not that big of a deal. An extra 15 minutes. I have heard from other mechanics that you should not shave the primary case to get the old rotor out. That burm is in the case for a reason. They tell me that it is there to pool the oil so the chain will pick it up better. Not sure I agree with that but would probably add a few more onces of oil to the primary. I also had a HD Rep from the main office tell me that indeed the older Compensators 2007-2010, were week. The SE compensator is surely the way to go. 
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
Well thanks to bowa18s fine write up and pictures I did the compensator change to my "07" Ultra last week. I had not really had a problem except for a weird "click" every once and a while. Like a lot of others everything looked great (only 6,000 miles). Although I have a jack, I decided to pull the shifter, floorboards and primary cover using my Lean Right. After removing these items I decided to do the entire job on the Lean Right, I believe that this made it easier than it would have been on my MC Jack. I let the primary drain over night on the jiffy stand and removed the cover the next morning on the Lean Right, I had NO fluid spill when I removed the cover. I also went to the next heavier clutch spring while I had the primary open ( Just slightly heavier pull ) for a little added insurance when riding two up. The primary fluid had not been changed yet so I knew that the refill was 45 ounces, but decided to measure how much came out. I was surprised that I got about 48 ounces. That tells me that they must have put about 49-50 ounces in at the factory. I am very happy with the clutch spring and compensator,no more weird noises and the clutch engagement feels a little more positive.