Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 757
Likes: 4
I called my local stealer and they wanted $600 out the door for the replacement and needed my bike for two days because they remove the inner primary. Thats nuttier than squirrel turds. I'm not paying that.
I have a J&S jack, torque wrenches and a shred of common sense so I think I'll pocket the $300 and do it myself. I have a selection of grinders too so I think I should be OK.
My 2008 sounds like there are bolts in the primary when I disengage the cluth in 1st gear. Makes low speed stuff difficult sometimes because it sounds like ****. Its still a shame HD won't fix this well known problem.
I have a J&S jack, torque wrenches and a shred of common sense so I think I'll pocket the $300 and do it myself. I have a selection of grinders too so I think I should be OK.
My 2008 sounds like there are bolts in the primary when I disengage the cluth in 1st gear. Makes low speed stuff difficult sometimes because it sounds like ****. Its still a shame HD won't fix this well known problem.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 565
Likes: 2
From: Palmyra Missouri
I installed the SE Compensator last night. I removed the whole inner case and the clutch assembly. It's not that big of a deal. An extra 15 minutes. I have heard from other mechanics that you should not shave the primary case to get the old rotor out. That burm is in the case for a reason. They tell me that it is there to pool the oil so the chain will pick it up better. Not sure I agree with that but would probably add a few more onces of oil to the primary. I also had a HD Rep from the main office tell me that indeed the older Compensators 2007-2010, were week. The SE compensator is surely the way to go. 
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 602
Likes: 51
From: central MN
I finally installed my SE compensator today. I used the pics in the OP as a guide and reference; they were a real help! Super easy job and everything went well. The hardest thing for me was the footboards! PITA with an oil cooler....
Bike runs quieter. Starter knock is gone, of course. I can feel the power pulses more distinctly (under part throttle roll-on at 2500 rpm in 5th, specifically). This makes perfect sense to me...
Some thoughts:
1) Grinding the inner case hurts NOTHING; try not to overthink this. Removing material here will not change any function of lubrication.
2) I didn't add the "oil channels" some have talked about; I don't think this will be an issue with Formula +.
3) I am glad I finally installed the comp. I was always going to do it at the same time as my 49T clutch basket, but haven't been able to justify the funds for the 49T yet, so I went ahead with it.
Thanks again to the OP for the nice writeup and pics!
Bike runs quieter. Starter knock is gone, of course. I can feel the power pulses more distinctly (under part throttle roll-on at 2500 rpm in 5th, specifically). This makes perfect sense to me...
Some thoughts:
1) Grinding the inner case hurts NOTHING; try not to overthink this. Removing material here will not change any function of lubrication.
2) I didn't add the "oil channels" some have talked about; I don't think this will be an issue with Formula +.
3) I am glad I finally installed the comp. I was always going to do it at the same time as my 49T clutch basket, but haven't been able to justify the funds for the 49T yet, so I went ahead with it.
Thanks again to the OP for the nice writeup and pics!
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 609
Likes: 14
From: Mount Airy, MD
Nope, the 2011's come with the SE comps already installed! Us lucky bastards with '07-'10's get to buy them ourselves! Although some owners have gotten them replaced under warranty, others are told that it's "normal" and get to pay for the swap. Unfortunately mine was "normal" 
so I got to buy my own.
so I got to buy my own.Thanks again for starting this thread bowa18!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
Thanks to bowa18!
I did mine 2 days ago using the grind method-- no probs and ez job. Very little material needs to come off the hump.
After wrapping everything up I used a vacum cleaner to suck up a lot of grinding flakes while I was grinding. Only had to do a small wipe out and double check (looked closely).
To get the OEM rotor off the stator I wrapped a nylon stretch sock around the flange and pulled on it. Guess a pair of the good lady's old pantyhose would have worked as well or better...
To act as a locking tool I used a short piece of 1"x1" wooden scrap. Don't know how long as the piece I picked up was a perfect fit.
All good.
I did mine 2 days ago using the grind method-- no probs and ez job. Very little material needs to come off the hump.
After wrapping everything up I used a vacum cleaner to suck up a lot of grinding flakes while I was grinding. Only had to do a small wipe out and double check (looked closely).
To get the OEM rotor off the stator I wrapped a nylon stretch sock around the flange and pulled on it. Guess a pair of the good lady's old pantyhose would have worked as well or better...
To act as a locking tool I used a short piece of 1"x1" wooden scrap. Don't know how long as the piece I picked up was a perfect fit.
All good.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 757
Likes: 4
Thanks!
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 4
From: so. Wisconsin
About that, it won't be much. You'll know if it's enough when you pull the stock rotor. The SE rotor is a tad bigger so it will need just a bit more material removed to get it on. The case is aluminum so it doesn't take much effort to smooth it down....1/16" or slightly more. Good luck, Bowa
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
Main thing is to follow the bump with your grinder from about 5.45 - 6 o'clock to about 9.30. You only need to roughly get within (about 1/4") from of the edge of the primary (gasket face).
Just grind a bit off, try to keep it even and stop for a test pull on the rotor a couple of times.
When you pull the rotor and if it hangs up you can see the high spots where a touch up grind is required.
It took me a couple of test pulls on the rotor before I cleared the high spots and it came free.
Stuff some socks around the OD of the rotor to seal off the stator and also a piece of rag needs to be stuffed in to each of the 2 small holes in the rotor face. Then stuff a towel or large rag over the chain and clutch basket and grind away!
Just grind a bit off, try to keep it even and stop for a test pull on the rotor a couple of times.
When you pull the rotor and if it hangs up you can see the high spots where a touch up grind is required.
It took me a couple of test pulls on the rotor before I cleared the high spots and it came free.
Stuff some socks around the OD of the rotor to seal off the stator and also a piece of rag needs to be stuffed in to each of the 2 small holes in the rotor face. Then stuff a towel or large rag over the chain and clutch basket and grind away!