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Installing SE compensator kit w/pics

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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:37 AM
  #71  
FXSTS-88's Avatar
FXSTS-88
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Am I to understand that this is a 'problem' with '06-'07 and newer 96"+ motors?
And not found on older twin cams? Just noticed that the catalog so states.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by hydrolock43
That won't be happening. I'm not sure what company is releasing the new style to replace the SE compensator this spring but you can find it in the threads over on HTT. Rabos over on HTT has done a lot of research on this SE compensator problem. The grooves help and it seems one of the better oils is HDs Formula plus for this fretting not to start showing. I took a SE compensator off a bike last week that was on for 170 miles so i could put a clutch on and it was already showing the rusty fretting in the sprocket bore. I used Redlines primary/MTL and atf in my bike the clutch worked great but the SE compensator was getting destroyed very quickly. One thing after another.
After reading this information, I'll be dumping the ATF and pouring in the Formula +...I have under 1000 miles on the SE Comp, so hopefully the fretting is minimal. I can't justify pulling everything out again to cut grooves but it's a gamble I'll have to take. Hard to find neutral, here I come!!!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by RK09RK
The stock unit can bottom out as the torque is applied from the engine from a quick stop or rapidly opening the throttle under load at low speed/low rpms. The stock spring set up cannot handle the rotational torque applied. That said, the SE unit has a beefier spring pack set up (stacked discs) to handle the load. The MoCo made the SE unit a standard factory issue item for model year 2011...
ok isn't the gear on a spline shaft(looking at the pictures) so there shouldn't be any slip.shouldn't that be the clutch slipping?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #74  
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hydrolock43
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Originally Posted by FXSTS-88
Am I to understand that this is a 'problem' with '06-'07 and newer 96"+ motors?
And not found on older twin cams? Just noticed that the catalog so states.
Yes the stock one that the SE compensator replaces is kind of weak and the replacement SE compensator has a little lube problem. But fear not there is word of a new better compensator being released in one of the threads over on HTT. It just never ends i should have left the damn thing stock. There will probably be such a demand for this new compensator that it will be on back order for two years.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 08:00 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by jerseyjeff62
ok isn't the gear on a spline shaft(looking at the pictures) so there shouldn't be any slip.shouldn't that be the clutch slipping?
No the spring pack covers most of the spline you are looking at. The only thing keyed to that spline is the sliding cam. The sprocket is on the end with just a smooth bore and bearing surface of the extension shaft. If you put you extension shaft together with the sprocket and washer /nut assembly you will be able to feel and see the space that the sprocket has on the shaft extension without the springs pushing the sliding cam against it. It is always pushed by the spring pack/sliding cam against the plastic thrust washer.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 08:02 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by hydrolock43
No the spring pack covers most of the spline you are looking at. The only thing keyed to that spline is the sliding cam. The sprocket is on the end with just a smooth bore and bearing surface of the extension shaft. If you put you extension shaft together with the sprocket and washer /nut assembly you will be able to feel and see the space that the sprocket has on the shaft extension without the springs pushing the sliding cam against it. It is always pushed by the spring pack/sliding cam against the plastic thrust washer.
thanks for clearing that up,
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by HDV-GLIDE
After reading this information, I'll be dumping the ATF and pouring in the Formula +...I have under 1000 miles on the SE Comp, so hopefully the fretting is minimal. I can't justify pulling everything out again to cut grooves but it's a gamble I'll have to take. Hard to find neutral, here I come!!!
Neutral was just as easy with the Formula plus for me just make sure that your clutch is adjusted properly. Nothing wrong with the atf or Redline primary fluid/MTL it's the SE compensator that is requiring a heavier fluid to stay in the bore and to stop the spokes on the sprocket and sliding cam from chewing up. I thought when i went to the SE compensator i was all set. When i first removed a SE compensator with 1500 miles to install a 120R in my bike i saw this rusty red sht all over the Sprocket. i put it to the side and used the new SE compensator that came with the 120R. The Red stuff caught my attention right off and i was thinking that maybe i used some Mobile one red syn grease during assemble but saw the pictures over on HTT and it was exactly what i saw fretting. I had to do a search on this forum under (SE compensator woes) and in reply 32 or right around there the link to the thread over on HTT is there. Sorry not real great on the computer stuff.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 11:59 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by hydrolock43
Neutral was just as easy with the Formula plus for me just make sure that your clutch is adjusted properly. Nothing wrong with the atf or Redline primary fluid/MTL it's the SE compensator that is requiring a heavier fluid to stay in the bore and to stop the spokes on the sprocket and sliding cam from chewing up. I thought when i went to the SE compensator i was all set. When i first removed a SE compensator with 1500 miles to install a 120R in my bike i saw this rusty red sht all over the Sprocket. i put it to the side and used the new SE compensator that came with the 120R. The Red stuff caught my attention right off and i was thinking that maybe i used some Mobile one red syn grease during assemble but saw the pictures over on HTT and it was exactly what i saw fretting. I had to do a search on this forum under (SE compensator woes) and in reply 32 or right around there the link to the thread over on HTT is there. Sorry not real great on the computer stuff.
I had the same red stuff on the shaft when I removed the stock comp. Of course I had been running ATF in there for awhile, if that possibly had anything to do with it. But if not, I guess the stock comp has the same fretting issues.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #79  
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Excellent write up & pics, both very clear!

On a lighter note, thanks for making me want to spend more money on my bike! Getting ready to yank the outter primary off for some aesthetic reasons and though I don't need a reason to blow more cash, it does kind of make me want to change that while I'm in there.

The only thing I need to check is whether or not my Police bike has a better part in it or whether it has the same plain-jane civilian part in it. The parts manuals have confirmed that the Police bikes (mine is an '09) very often have the same exact parts as the Civilian models. Heads, cams, clutches, the list goes on. Seems nowadays not a hell of a lot is 'upgraded' for Police duty compared to years past.

If I do the swap, your write up will make life much easier. Thanks again.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by HDV-GLIDE
I had the same red stuff on the shaft when I removed the stock comp. Of course I had been running ATF in there for awhile, if that possibly had anything to do with it. But if not, I guess the stock comp has the same fretting issues.
It is possible but the SE one really starts to tear apart with the atf or similar MTL. Most after market clutch manufacturers only want atf used with their clutches i'm dealing with that issue right now after installing a Rivera pro clutch. I have formula plus in there now and they are now telling me Golden Spectro gear oil is ok with their clutch. It seems endless. Supposedly Formula plus is 40w non syn. oil
 
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