Hard to get into neutral?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
HD just came out with a bulletin advising dealers to adjust the clutches on 2012's at the PDI before delivery because a bunch of the 2012's came out of the factory with the clutches improperly adjusted. Anyone with a 2012 that is having problems prior to the 1k where an adjustment was done and prior to this bulletin coming out on Sept 23rd probably has an affected model.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
That explains it DAWG. I adjusted the clutch cable, clutch pack and lubed the cable at 500 miles on my 2012 FLHTK. Neutral is much easier to find. I also changed out the primary fluid with Fomular + while I was at it.
The primary does get a little noisey when I stop adn let the clutch out in neutral. Not as bad as before thou. Any idea what this may be?
The primary does get a little noisey when I stop adn let the clutch out in neutral. Not as bad as before thou. Any idea what this may be?
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I know this is an old post...but have always had this problem to...actually with the last three Harleys I've owned (including wife's new trike). Just done a engine rebuild and noticed a little slippage in the clutch...so decided to put the SE HD clutch in...you won't believe how easy it is to now shift into neutral or any gear as far as that goes. Now, the wife want a new clutch (only 400 miles on the trike). Can't win for losing.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
Some bikes get easier with some miles, others don't, they are not all the same.
My present bike has 25,000 miles on it and sometimes it still don't wanna play when it is time for neutral.
What I have found that does work is hitting neutral while you are still rolling.
My present bike has 25,000 miles on it and sometimes it still don't wanna play when it is time for neutral.
What I have found that does work is hitting neutral while you are still rolling.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Crete, Greece
Mine was hard too ... second what everyone else said and here's another tip. I lower my toe shifter. Since I don't use "under" toe, didn't see a reason why it should be so high. After I lowered it, I noticed down shifts and neutral were much easier. I suspect since it was adjusted so high, I occasionally never fully released pressure during down shifts, etc...
The pic shows what mine is now, the red line is where I adjusted from ... it was high.
The pic shows what mine is now, the red line is where I adjusted from ... it was high.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 719
Likes: 35
From: SE New Hampshire
The "can't find neutral" issue has nothing to do with the tranny. It's the clutch plates creating a slight load on the trans prohibiting the shift from 1st to nutral. My bike has always been a ***** to find neutral (and I have 24K on my bike). IMO I believe a lot of the issue stems from the '06+ redesigned "easy pull" ramp that Harley swapped to. With this new ramp angle, while you got reduced effort to pull the clutch, by design you also got a more lengthened and gradual interval of physical clutch engagement and disengagement. This is good and bad. The bad is your clutch starts to engage much earlier, and fully "lock" later. I tried running a very "tight" clutch adjustment, and I actually had a much easier time finding nutral, but on the flipside I was worried about now having too much preload on the clutch and burning out the throwout bearing prematurely. If I am cruising to a stop and I bump my tranny from 2nd to neutral or 1st to neutral, it shifts like silk, however as soon as I stop and I try for nutral, it won't go. The heated up clutch plates are spinning and transferring a small amount of torque to the tranny, this slightly loads the gears and prohibits you from getting into neutral. The tighter you adjust your cable, the more of a gap you create between the clutch plates when you pull the clutch in. I drove my friends '03 softail, and the clutch pull was a little stiff, but that tranny shifted WAY better than mine, and that softail was bone stock. So I set my clutch adjustment for zero freeplay when cold, and by the time the clutch heats up, I now have a slight freeplay gap, and that's where I run. I just shut er' down and then click into neutral.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 410
Likes: 3
From: Central North Carolina
My 2011 UC has always been tricky to get into neutral. Last weekend, I did the 10K on it and put Red Line in all 3 holes. Now, it goes into neutral easily. That Red Line Tranny stuff with Shockproof really made a difference.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
The "can't find neutral" issue has nothing to do with the tranny. It's the clutch plates creating a slight load on the trans prohibiting the shift from 1st to nutral. My bike has always been a ***** to find neutral (and I have 24K on my bike). IMO I believe a lot of the issue stems from the '06+ redesigned "easy pull" ramp that Harley swapped to. With this new ramp angle, while you got reduced effort to pull the clutch, by design you also got a more lengthened and gradual interval of physical clutch engagement and disengagement. This is good and bad. The bad is your clutch starts to engage much earlier, and fully "lock" later. I tried running a very "tight" clutch adjustment, and I actually had a much easier time finding nutral, but on the flipside I was worried about now having too much preload on the clutch and burning out the throwout bearing prematurely. If I am cruising to a stop and I bump my tranny from 2nd to neutral or 1st to neutral, it shifts like silk, however as soon as I stop and I try for nutral, it won't go. The heated up clutch plates are spinning and transferring a small amount of torque to the tranny, this slightly loads the gears and prohibits you from getting into neutral. The tighter you adjust your cable, the more of a gap you create between the clutch plates when you pull the clutch in. I drove my friends '03 softail, and the clutch pull was a little stiff, but that tranny shifted WAY better than mine, and that softail was bone stock. So I set my clutch adjustment for zero freeplay when cold, and by the time the clutch heats up, I now have a slight freeplay gap, and that's where I run. I just shut er' down and then click into neutral.
This was my problem too. I adjusted the cable housing about 1/16 longer or so, still have good end play, but the clutch is no longer dragging and it's easy to find neutral.