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Those additives do nothing to take the contaminates out of the oil. This is what does the damage. Its not that the oil breaks down that easily it just gets dirty.
That's what the oil filter is for, to remove suspended particles. It is not the oils job to suspend contaminates.
Heard it all b4 bro, i bought my bike when the eco was good now things are tight even tho i agree that this seems cheap to some but when you add it all up I aint rich like you.
I didn't mean to come off rude. I meant that it seems cheaper to me to put a little more money into maintenance than to have to make potential engine repairs. Times are tough for all of us and IMO a little extra maintenance seems like the more economical route. Just my .02
+ 1 paranoid when you change oil too often...waste of money. Got a friend who used Harley DINO oil, then switched to HARLEY synthetic oil...did it at 5000 mile intervals , Bike now has 135000 miles and never had any issues. I know sounds incredible , but true story... done normal maintenance, still runs strong...Harley Rocks!
I change mine every 5000 just like the manual says however I might change the filter more often. I never put the bike away for any period of time without having the oil up to temp for at least 30 minutes to make sure that the condensation has been removed. No short runs in cool or cold weather. The oil is always clean in appearance, never dark. Mobil 20 - 50 V-Twin Oil. IMO.
Last edited by Gator454; Apr 9, 2011 at 05:42 PM.
Reason: Added Brand of Oil
That's what the oil filter is for, to remove suspended particles. It is not the oils job to suspend contaminates.
It removes larger particles not smaller contaminates like carbon and it also does nothing to remove moisture and acidity. This is why oil gets dirty weather you change the filter or not note the black color and the thicker viscosity when you compare used oil to new.
I didn't mean to come off rude. I meant that it seems cheaper to me to put a little more money into maintenance than to have to make potential engine repairs. Times are tough for all of us and IMO a little extra maintenance seems like the more economical route. Just my .02
Np dude, but I guess I was trying to shed some light on the outrageous prices for syn oils, I was also expressing how you can get the same protection from good old clean dyno oil at a cheaper price, i admit that it cannot take the extreme heat that the syn can but with a stage 1 oil cooler and idle fan dino is plenty plus you wont get the carbon build up from syn due to the oil vent system, dino burns off much cleaner.
I'm running HD dino & when I get to 5000 miles I'll use Redline & change every 5000. I would keep running the HD dino but want that extra cooling & protection. I'm running Redline Shock Proof in tranny now & HD F in primary. Oil is cheap compared to all the money spent on goodies. I'd rather spend the money on top shelf oil than a bunch of chome parts that don't do **** for your bike. Just my 2 cents.
Since PACCAR (Peterbuilt Kenworth) recommends severe service oil changes at 8,000 miles with dino oil on the new Paccar engines I don't see a problem with most any oil for 5,000 on Harleys.
There's been a million threads on oil changes, and I'm one for clean oil. Mine is changed every three thousand no matter what. With over 81K, I'm satisfied that frequent changes make for a sound, long lasting motor. Old school, maybe; but if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm using Mobil 1 15W50W in the crank, Redline Heavy duty Shockproof in the gear box, and Harley Primary oil. It just works!
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