Since my warranty has expired and I couldn't convince my dealer that the stock compensator was making enough noise that it should be replaced under warranty so I ordered one.

Since new there has been approximately $2500.00 parts and labor work done under warranty for my '09 Ultra Classic.

I don't think my conscience would allow me to sell the UC like it is and would have a better chance of selling (if I decide to) with a new SE compensator.

 

Yeah I finally had to do it myself a couple of months ago on my '09. The dealer kept denying anything was wrong. It was fairly straight forward to do, took me about 3 maybe 4 hours. I had to grind a little on the inside of the primary case to get the compensator to clear. It did make some difference, but frankly, not earth shattering. I made my own locking tool out of a piece of bar stock and it worked great.

 

Mine went totally to ****.. stock was on back order, so I paid the difference and got a SE compensator. Sounds better, doesnt sound or feel fragile.

 

Mine will be replaced on Saturday....anxious to see what the stock looks like.

 

I too bit the bullet ... & paid $ - upgraded

Imagine my 2009 RG SE CVO 110 came stock with the Compensator from the 96" - MoCo says "that's how it's supposed to be"

it was making just a bit of noise on cold start up - not a failure (yet)
my stock one appeared fine ...

so just put the right part in once & be done - I hope

btw

Used Red Line Tranny Fluid and Formula Plus in the Primary !!!!

things are way quieter & smoother !!!! best bag for my buck

stayed with syn3 for the crank ...

 

heres a few pics from my change. you have to grind the little bump away inisde the case to get the mageto off. you dont have to grind to the outer face to get it off. polished the grind area with a flapper wheel to smooth out case. after you put the parts on , mag. inner spline gear hub, spring plates, compensator hub, compensator gear, then lastly the locking nut. I dont like the hard locktight harley coats the threads with so I wire wheeled it off and used red locktight on threads. I had a problem on cam bolt once and partially recked threads and will never use their bolts coated with that crap again. You have to put the locking tool to lock compensator gear against the clutch hub and hold the 1 3/4 wrench on the nut against the compensator while turning the 3/4 inch nut with your torque wrench to 100 ft lbs. then loosen bolt and retorque to 150 ft lbs. I made my own locking tool from a piece of stainless flatbar, rounded edges so they dont dig into sprockets faces
My shoe for the primary chain was abit worn with 35000 km on it so I changed it out anyway, cost 135 can or 93 us for new shoe.
Ordered new mva heads for my bike and waiting for them to show up.

 

what is the part number for this? i guess i will need to do it too.

 

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
40274-08 in screaming eagle section of parts list as well as screaming chicken catalog

 

At about 32K miles, I replaced my stock compensator with the SE compensator. My stock compensator had not been giving me any trouble, but I had an oil leak behind the inner primary, so since it needed to come apart, it was a logical time to upgrade the compensator.

There was a little galling on the splines of the shaft extension, but it wasn't bad enough (yet) to cause the compensator to hang up. Sooner or later, though, it would have



Torquing the new compensator down.





Got the oil leak fixed, too.



If I'd really have been thinking, I would have also changed the trans pulley out while we were in there. I'm thinking about swapping the stock 32t pulley for a 30t one to make 6th gear a little more usable. It takes the better part of a weekend day to get the primary completely apart, and back together.

If you grind the lip on the inner primary, as has been suggested, it saves a bit of time. I needed to pull the inner primary to fix the oil leak, so that meant disconnecting the starter, and removing the rear exhaust. Probably added another 1 1/2 hours altogether. You could also change your inner primary out for a chrome one if you're so inclined.

 

What, pray tell, required this much warranty work? At 19K, before the warranty expired, I got my front brake rotors replaced due to warping and 50% off the cost of a new installed front tire due to cupping of the OEM tire.....maybe $500.00 parts and labor at the most.

I ask because your answer may foretell my future.

VR