1000 Mile Fluid Change
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
1000 Mile Fluid Change
New Guy here, so bear with me. According to the service manual for my FLHX, oil and primary should be drained at normal operating temperature. Does it matter for the transmission? Manual makes no mention of it. Thanks.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 669
Likes: 71
From: Tennessee
Be sure to do more than just change the fluids at 1,000 miles. It's the most important service job your bike will get in my opinion. Very important to check tightness of all fasteners, belt tension, spoke tightness (if applicable), etc. Good luck with your new scoot. I also like to warm the bike up before changing fluids.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Checking all fasteners, fluid changes, inspecting air filter, etc. no problem. Belt tension, clutch adjustment, not real sure. Have the manual and a fair amount of mechanical know-how, but have never worked on a bike, except dirt bikes many years ago. Some say that I should let the dealer do it, but they want too much in my opinion, and I have always preferred not to pay someone to do something I can do myself. If I find that I can't, then I'll come back here for some guidance. From what I've read in these forums, there are plenty of folks here with the know-how and willingness to assist.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Gardner, KS (KC Metro)
do all of your services after warming for a few minutes. like 69cj said it gets any contaminents still being in suspension. quickbiscuit is also right about the 1000 mile being one of the most important if not the most important. take your time & do it right even if it takes you all day although it prob won't take any more than a couple of hours provided you have all the tools needed. make sure all critical fasteners are torqued to spec and make sure to record your mileage & keep all reciepts for your warranty.
belt tension guage isn't real expensive at the hd shop (each mark on the belt guard = 1/8") & clutch adjustment is easy. without looking at the bike and going through it off the top of my head i think it goes something like this: loosen the clutch cable all the way, remove the clutch cover, i think it's a t-25 or t-27 torx for bolts, loosen the retaining bolt, pretty sure it takes 11/16" open end wrench, while holding the center bolt with an allen wrench, not sure of the size on this one, twist the allen until you feel it starting to get tight then loosen 1/2 to 1 full turn, tighten retaining bolt while holding the allen, adjust your clutch cable to 1/8" of slack in the spot where your cable enters the hole at the lever, make sure to press the clutch lever in a few times to ensure the ***** in the clutch are in the ramps, re-install cover with a new gasket & test ride. don't take my word for it though definately DO WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS but that should give you an idea.
belt tension guage isn't real expensive at the hd shop (each mark on the belt guard = 1/8") & clutch adjustment is easy. without looking at the bike and going through it off the top of my head i think it goes something like this: loosen the clutch cable all the way, remove the clutch cover, i think it's a t-25 or t-27 torx for bolts, loosen the retaining bolt, pretty sure it takes 11/16" open end wrench, while holding the center bolt with an allen wrench, not sure of the size on this one, twist the allen until you feel it starting to get tight then loosen 1/2 to 1 full turn, tighten retaining bolt while holding the allen, adjust your clutch cable to 1/8" of slack in the spot where your cable enters the hole at the lever, make sure to press the clutch lever in a few times to ensure the ***** in the clutch are in the ramps, re-install cover with a new gasket & test ride. don't take my word for it though definately DO WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS but that should give you an idea.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sfcmo357
Touring Models
40
May 8, 2014 03:00 AM
