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Codes after new Apes install

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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:24 PM
  #11  
WallyWhite's Avatar
WallyWhite
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: San Antonio
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Thanks for the info. I'll try soldering the wires and getting rid of the plug. At least its worth a try to save $105 bucks.

I saw what your talking about with the same colored wires in both the yellow and black sets. I think the most annoying part will be disassembling and having to repull wires. And least I've had to do it once already so it should be a lot easier the second time around now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing.

I'll post an update once I do just to make if rm f it clears the codes. Thanks again everyone for the help.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:41 PM
  #12  
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SBates08
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From: Lake, Ms
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Originally Posted by WallyWhite
Thanks for the info. I'll try soldering the wires and getting rid of the plug. At least its worth a try to save $105 bucks. I saw what your talking about with the same colored wires in both the yellow and black sets. I think the most annoying part will be disassembling and having to repull wires. And least I've had to do it once already so it should be a lot easier the second time around now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing. I'll post an update once I do just to make if rm f it clears the codes. Thanks again everyone for the help.
It'll be the easiest $105 you ever saved.

2010 Limited with some stuff
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:48 PM
  #13  
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Smash
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From: Guymon, OK
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Originally Posted by WallyWhite
Thanks for the info. I'll try soldering the wires and getting rid of the plug. At least its worth a try to save $105 bucks.

I saw what your talking about with the same colored wires in both the yellow and black sets. I think the most annoying part will be disassembling and having to repull wires. And least I've had to do it once already so it should be a lot easier the second time around now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing.

I'll post an update once I do just to make if rm f it clears the codes. Thanks again everyone for the help.
Yeah man...I had to take my bars back apart to fix that connector too. IT's a pain in the a$$, and it sucks to have to take it all back apart. But you might as well do it and get it right.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 01:45 PM
  #14  
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WallyWhite
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From: San Antonio
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Yeah, you're right on that one. It's been a great learning experience but it's my own fault for getting impatient and wanting to do it right now instead of just waiting for winter. O'well, lesson learned.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 03:13 PM
  #15  
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Smash
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From: Guymon, OK
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Originally Posted by WallyWhite
Yeah, you're right on that one. It's been a great learning experience but it's my own fault for getting impatient and wanting to do it right now instead of just waiting for winter. O'well, lesson learned.
Nothing wrong with that man. We want what we want...and we want it now! lol
 
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 12:29 PM
  #16  
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WallyWhite
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From: San Antonio
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Finally got around to trying to take everything back apart over a couple rainy days here. Got the fairing all pulled apart, controlled off, and rotated there bars back so I could get at the bottom where the writing comes out.

Was hoping I could back the TBW wires out enough to clip and solder without having to disassemble the bars. Reason I was trying to do it this way is my bike is a retired police bike that had some of the wires run back under the gas tank from the control clusters that I had cut and soldered back together once there new bars were installed.

Needless to say I couldn't get the wiring to pull back out of the bars. Said "screw it" and was going to put it back together and just ride it as is then fix it this winter. However, once it was all back together I guess it up and..... No response from the throttle. I had to have pulled the green plug apart inside the bars trying to back it out. So now I'm forced to pull it all the way apart again.

My question now is due anyone have any tips fort getting the TBW, heated grip wire and control cluster wires out instead of just really ripping on the wires to pull them out. I have some wire pulling lube on the way from amazon that I hope will make a difference. I put a good amount of muscle into trying to push and pull the wires back out, but to no avail thus far. If I have to buy a new cluster/TBW worst case I will, but hell, can't get the ones in there out.

Any ideas from anyone or has anyone run into writing getting stuck when trying to back out wires?

They're twin peaks 12in, so there is one 90degree and the opening at the bottom is smaller than that of a set of wild1's, so it's tight. But hoping someone has some sort of miracle suggestion that will save me from this ongoing headache. Thanks guys.
 

Last edited by WallyWhite; Aug 19, 2015 at 12:32 PM.
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