one more follow up.....I believe when a spark plug is removed..it should be replaced because the washer is a "crush" washer and to obtain the same seal, when re-installed, could cause over tightening. ( I have cheated on that one a few times over the years...lol)

 

ditto that- anti seize affects torque values

 

Permatex Silver is rated at 1600 degrees (as stated on the bottle). If your heads are getting that hot you have more to worry about then the color of your anti seize. I also checked my plugs a few minutes ago at 10k they looked great. square edges and a gap of .040 2010 SG

 

it's not the temp...it's the product going inside the chamber....research it...creates hot spots in the cylinder head

look up the MSDS on Loctite Silver Grade.....check what the flashpoint is....check what its really made from....the name is a misnomer....made from graphite and aluminum and flashpoint is 93 degree C which equals 199 degree F.

But if you want to keep using stuff like that....I'm ok with it....

 

These are quotes from HD services manuals...........

2006 Touring manual......
Installation
1.Before installing spark plugs.check condition of threads in cylinder head and on plug.If necessary soften deposits with penatrating oil and clean out with a thread chaser.
2.Apply a very light coating of ANTISEIZE LUBRICANT to spark plug threads.
3.Install spark plug finger tight and then tighten to 12-18 ft-lbs.

2011 Touring manual
1.bla bla bla
2.bla bla bla
3.bla bla bla
4.bla bla bla
5.same as #1 (2006)
6.Apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE(part #98960-97)to spark plug threads.Install and tighten to 12-18 ft-lbs.
7.bla bla - bla bla.

 

Man I didn't know I was going to come back to all this rigamarole.

mrmud, when you read my other post, did you skip the first line, that said something like, don't pay attention to me, I'm crazy? Anyway you are correct about the silver grade anti-seize, it's metal is aluminum. Graphite, though is not a metal.

Well there's your whole problem, your not supposed to pour the stuff in the cylinder, just put a little on the threads.

If used correctly, I don't see what the flashpoint would have to do with it. Since a flashpoint requires a source of ignition, unless you had some inside the chamber (where the source would be) the flashpoint would not be a consideration. I mean the flashpoint of the gas in the tank is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of -45*F.

I am getting older and dumber though, so learning is always welcome on my end. I just hope that I still remember what I learn a week later.

I say plugs last at least 20k on a bike with no abnormal problems, and apply a small (key here, small) amount of silver grade anti-seize to the threads and torque to approx. 14-16ftlbs.

edit: Thanks, 1flht, you posted that while I was trying to remember what I was typing about, but hey good source you have there.

 

My Lord, this is as bad as the BMW forum, where an argument went on for days, literally days, about how long (many were convinced it should be AT LEAST overnight) should one let the "dirty" oil drain out at oil change, to make sure ALL of it is gone.
God help me, if it is THAT dirty, it should have been changed a lot earlier.

Another guy said he missed going on a group ride because when they got back, he would be 150 miles over his 3000 mile oil change interval.

 

Come on lipster, can't we have a little fun, I mean it is Saturday, and I'm writing this reply (like an idiot) instead of enjoying my ride.

Oh yeah, overnight? Really? I was thinking more in the area of 48-72 hrs, so you please go back to that BMW forum and let them know that, that time period is way too short.

Everyone have a wonderful day and weekend, I'm going to try and get away for a little while.

 

I wish I could go for a ride. 45 and drizzle all day.

 

Hey,you can always check your plugs!