'07 StreetGlide, non-ABS, shakes when braking. It's correlated with speed all the way down to stop so I think it's warped rotors. Can HD rotors be machined like car rotors or must I replace them? Only 33,000 miles, and although I am a "front braker", I don't brake hard very often. I considered that it is tire wear, but it only happens when braking. What do you think?

thanks-

 

They get replaced.
Best to set up a dial indicator to check run-out.
Or you can place a fixed object near the rotor face and use a feeler gauge.

 

Throw on floating rotors for better heat dissipation.

 

It might be the tire. Check it for cupping.

 

This is a few bucks, 6 to 8 bills, but it's a good upgrade. And as long as you're doing the rotors... Get a set of 08 or later used Brembo calipers off eBay (200-250). They'll bolt right on a 99-07. Get a set of new Harley 11.8" floating rotors ('teardrop') off eBay (320). Add your choice of brake pads (e.g., EBC HH, 80). Throw in braided steel lines (100-150).

If you want to upgrade the master cylinder (to 08) at the same time, it'll be around 200 for used MC, clutch perch (to match), both with levers.

I would not personally bet on any 'used' rotors, regardless of style, as I suspect most were taken off for a reason. As others have said, if you're going to stick just with replacing your stock rotors, I think Harley makes true 'floating' for the 07 and earlier bikes (11.5"). I'd definitely get the 'floaters' versus the stock discs. You're looking at 300 to 400 for those.

Alan

 

For now just turn the rotors and replace brake pads and use the tranny more to slow you down that's what is there for!

 

Who does this?

Someone might be able to have them double disc ground but dont think there would be enough mat'l on them to clean up and still be within spec.

 

The hubby had that rotor issue with his 08 EG. He has the extended warranty and he only paid $50 - was surprised that that was a covered part.

 

I had the same problem with my '07 Ultra. Checked runout with a good dial indicator & had .028" runout on the right & .025" on the left. Marked the deviations from average with a sharpie & used a 2# dead blow hammer to "massage" the high spots from the outside and a 24" wooden dowel & the hammer for the low spots on the inside. It didn't take much of a blow at all to move the rotor. With trial & error I was able to get both rotors to within .002", which is less than crankshaft runout. End of problem.

 

So easy, even a caveman could do it...LMAO...