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'07 StreetGlide, non-ABS, shakes when braking. It's correlated with speed all the way down to stop so I think it's warped rotors. Can HD rotors be machined like car rotors or must I replace them? Only 33,000 miles, and although I am a "front braker", I don't brake hard very often. I considered that it is tire wear, but it only happens when braking. What do you think?
This is a few bucks, 6 to 8 bills, but it's a good upgrade. And as long as you're doing the rotors... Get a set of 08 or later used Brembo calipers off eBay (200-250). They'll bolt right on a 99-07. Get a set of new Harley 11.8" floating rotors ('teardrop') off eBay (320). Add your choice of brake pads (e.g., EBC HH, 80). Throw in braided steel lines (100-150).
If you want to upgrade the master cylinder (to 08) at the same time, it'll be around 200 for used MC, clutch perch (to match), both with levers.
I would not personally bet on any 'used' rotors, regardless of style, as I suspect most were taken off for a reason. As others have said, if you're going to stick just with replacing your stock rotors, I think Harley makes true 'floating' for the 07 and earlier bikes (11.5"). I'd definitely get the 'floaters' versus the stock discs. You're looking at 300 to 400 for those.
I had the same problem with my '07 Ultra. Checked runout with a good dial indicator & had .028" runout on the right & .025" on the left. Marked the deviations from average with a sharpie & used a 2# dead blow hammer to "massage" the high spots from the outside and a 24" wooden dowel & the hammer for the low spots on the inside. It didn't take much of a blow at all to move the rotor. With trial & error I was able to get both rotors to within .002", which is less than crankshaft runout. End of problem.
I had the same problem with my '07 Ultra. Checked runout with a good dial indicator & had .028" runout on the right & .025" on the left. Marked the deviations from average with a sharpie & used a 2# dead blow hammer to "massage" the high spots from the outside and a 24" wooden dowel & the hammer for the low spots on the inside. It didn't take much of a blow at all to move the rotor. With trial & error I was able to get both rotors to within .002", which is less than crankshaft runout. End of problem.
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