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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:35 AM
  #11  
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Hondo65
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Ok I need a little edumaction. What is a "floating" rotor? And are there any other parts I would need to change over on a 99 Electra-Glide?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #12  
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Hondo65
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Soooo... nobody else knows either, or I just asked a question so dumb no ones gonna bother...?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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I'll try to explain.

There are three types of brake rotors: solid, semifloating, and full floating. With a solid rotor a single piece of metal is bolted to the wheel. With semifloating like Harleys, you have a center piece and a separate outer part that the brake pads touch and the two are connected by a bunch of round "buttons" that allow a small amount of movement between the two. With full floating, the braking surface is relatively loose so that it can move around to hopefully become in perfect alignment with the pads. Full floating rotors are less likely to pulse than solid or semifloating rotors. Most race bikes have full floating rotors. Full floating rotors make noise at low speeds as the parts move around, since they're kind of loose. Semifloating rotors don't make the noise.

But all 3 kinds can get warped if they get too hot.
 

Last edited by isac; Jun 8, 2011 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #14  
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Cool I get it ( I think) Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by TWIN CAM 96
For now just turn the rotors and replace brake pads and use the tranny more to slow you down that's what is there for!
Brake pads and rotors are cheaper and easier to replace than clutches and belts.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #16  
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TWIN CAM 96
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Check out www.lyndallracingbrakes.com sounds like you have warped rotors or you need to clean up your calipers. See the service/tech page at that site to clean your calipers.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by misterclassic
I had the same problem with my '07 Ultra. Checked runout with a good dial indicator & had .028" runout on the right & .025" on the left. Marked the deviations from average with a sharpie & used a 2# dead blow hammer to "massage" the high spots from the outside and a 24" wooden dowel & the hammer for the low spots on the inside. It didn't take much of a blow at all to move the rotor. With trial & error I was able to get both rotors to within .002", which is less than crankshaft runout. End of problem.
My story exactly but my problem still persists. I "massaged" my rotors also to within .003" runout. I then installed new Harley brake pads and tightened the neck bearings. No improvement. I'm at a loss. The next move I guess is new rotors. If that doesn't work, new wheel bearings. Any other ideas??
 
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