Increasing Oil Capacity
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 3
From: Chattanooga, TN
260 is a normal operating temp, and the Mobile 1 motorcycle oil is good for over 500 degrees.
I think if you do a heat transfer calculation you will need an additional 3-4 quarts to even get down 5 degrees, assuming outside ambient temps remain the same and the oil flow remains constant. Once the "mass" heats up it's hard to get the temps down without a big cooler and a large oil tank.
A fan on the oil cooler could drop the temps 5-8 degrees with outside air not exceeding 90 degrees F. I wouldn't want the hot air blowing on my legs.
Good luck !!
I think if you do a heat transfer calculation you will need an additional 3-4 quarts to even get down 5 degrees, assuming outside ambient temps remain the same and the oil flow remains constant. Once the "mass" heats up it's hard to get the temps down without a big cooler and a large oil tank.
A fan on the oil cooler could drop the temps 5-8 degrees with outside air not exceeding 90 degrees F. I wouldn't want the hot air blowing on my legs.
Good luck !!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
I am not aware of anyone besides Baker that makes an increased capacity pan.
The Baker pan separates the inflow and outflow to different sides of the pan to reduce operating temperature in addition to the increased capacity.
The Baker pan separates the inflow and outflow to different sides of the pan to reduce operating temperature in addition to the increased capacity.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Australia
There was a thread last year or early this year I think where a guy did a comparison of oil coolers with fans and a lanele fan with some very interesting results. If memory serves me right, the oil cooler with fans didnt cut out the rear cyl shutdown circuit, but just slowed down the oil temp rising, but the lanele fan actually dropped the temp down enough to bring the rear cyl back online again. I realise this info is worthless to you if you want to bring your riding temps down but may help in stop and go traffic, as thats where my riding temps get higher, as I'm not worried about them when the bike is moving as these motors are designed for that.
Last edited by bikehe; May 18, 2011 at 11:49 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Some good info.
Crash Bar "Cooler" - read quite a bit about that concept on the forum and the idea is pretty interesting. The concern with this idea is my lowers - melting, "remolding" or otherwise damaging the lowers / paint with continuous heat and thermal cycling. Anyone have experience running a "crash bar cooler" with lowers?
fabrik8r - You've achieve the temp range I want to be in (210 ish). You also hit on the key element. If the oil is X degrees in the pan, what temps are the top end seeing? Low 300s seems pretty reasonable to me.
"..... if you do a heat transfer calculation you will need an additional 3-4 quarts to even get down 5 degrees, assuming outside ambient temps remain the same and the oil flow remains constant. Once the "mass" heats up it's hard to get the temps down without a big cooler and a large oil tank." This is good to know.
I have a Rev Perf 107 kit sitting under my desk at the house waiting for my return to the States - the fascination with lowering my operating temps is about half the result of wanting to protect my investment (the bike plus add-ons) and that rotary wing aviation has pounded heat management into my head.
All good ideas..... Thanks.
Crash Bar "Cooler" - read quite a bit about that concept on the forum and the idea is pretty interesting. The concern with this idea is my lowers - melting, "remolding" or otherwise damaging the lowers / paint with continuous heat and thermal cycling. Anyone have experience running a "crash bar cooler" with lowers?
fabrik8r - You've achieve the temp range I want to be in (210 ish). You also hit on the key element. If the oil is X degrees in the pan, what temps are the top end seeing? Low 300s seems pretty reasonable to me.
"..... if you do a heat transfer calculation you will need an additional 3-4 quarts to even get down 5 degrees, assuming outside ambient temps remain the same and the oil flow remains constant. Once the "mass" heats up it's hard to get the temps down without a big cooler and a large oil tank." This is good to know.
I have a Rev Perf 107 kit sitting under my desk at the house waiting for my return to the States - the fascination with lowering my operating temps is about half the result of wanting to protect my investment (the bike plus add-ons) and that rotary wing aviation has pounded heat management into my head.
All good ideas..... Thanks.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,916
Likes: 31
From: earth
That is hocus pocus marketing BS, The OEM pan and baffle system also completely separates the in and out ports, forcing the oil to travel maximum distance within the pan, hover maximum time to shed heat, and thorouhly mixes all of the cycling oil preventing hot and cold spots. The main difference is the 3D modeling, computer flow simulation assisted baffle design, CNC machined billet aluminum housing, that requires an extra quart of oil every time you change it. Thats what I call a gold plated turd on a string.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 9
From: SoCal & West TN
You can use the '09 on the '08. But not the '08 on '09.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
+1 JDs did mine and made a huge difference
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,450
Likes: 4
From: El Cajon Ca.
I have seen the CRASH BAR OIL COOLER trick. It works great. A buddy of mine did it and his temps were way lower vs without it. Cheap mod to do. The main thing is to make sure and get it cleaned out real well be fore you hook the lines up.
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