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Do the brakes feel like they are staying on once you do get them to work? if you can put the bike in the air and hand spin the rear wheel and then apply the brake ...now after the wheel has stopped turn the wheel by hand ..does it turn freely or feel like it is stuck first and then lets go or can you feel the brakes dragging as you turn it ? I am wondering if your caliper is siezing up ...shouldn't be being fairley new ..what colour is your disc/rotor ..is it blued from heat ?is it super shiney looking ? ..if you do have to tear down the caliper the rubber o ring kit to reassemble it is cheap I am looking at a kit with new pistons and the rubbers sitting on my desk right now ..I think they were about 30$ but don't quote me on that ....
If you brought this bike to me I would be tearing down the caliper and inspecting all the pistons ..reassembleing with new rubbers and pistons (if needed ) and then flushing out the old brake fluid and bleed the system ..you should have a "feel "to the pedal and yours sounds like it is on/off ...I am wondering if as you bought this bike used if the former owner put a set of hard or "racing" pads in there ..I would also replace the pads with softer ones ,,,,,
I don't know the history of the pads, the story from the dealership is that the former owner buys a new bike every year and trades in the old one. It only had 6,500 miles on it so I doubt whether the pads were replaced, but who knows, maybe they squealed or chattered. The rotors look normal, not blued or super shiney. I was beginning to suspect that the pistons were sticking (I know it doesn't take much corrosion or dirt for them to stick) and now that you mention it, that's what it sounds like. In your experience, if the wheel feels like the brakes are dragging when trying to spin it after releasing the brake, is that a good indication of problems with the caliper pistons? I'm taking it in Tuesday for a new rear wheel so I'll ask my indy to check it out. I was hoping to save the brake work $$$, but since I like to stop when I'm riding I guess I'll fork over the money to have the caliper rebuilt, too. I REALLY appreciate the feedback from all of you.
Just a follow-up in case anyone is following this thread. Took my bike to my indy to have a new rear tire mounted and while he had the wheel off I asked him to have a look at the caliper pistons. Just from my visual inspection they looked pretty crudded up, and he agreed. He pumped them out a ways, cleaned them up and reinstalled the caliper. BTW, he said he did not find any air in the master cylinder, brake lines or caliper when he tried bleeding the brakes before he started any thing else, so at least I know that my brake bleeding abilities are ok. He also scuffed up my brake pads although he said they didn't look too terribly glazed. Anyway, it looks like cleaning up the pistons has taken care of the non-ABS shudder and I am happy to report that I have a working rear brake now. Thanks to all who offered suggestions! Once again, you guys were right!
I think I'm having the same problem roadhog gonna take it to get checked out today. Just wanna say thanks for the follow up saved me from startling a new thread. Cant tell you how much I hate finding posts with the same problem but no follow-ups so thank you very much!
Do the brakes feel like they are staying on once you do get them to work? if you can put the bike in the air and hand spin the rear wheel and then apply the brake ...now after the wheel has stopped turn the wheel by hand ..does it turn freely or feel like it is stuck first and then lets go or can you feel the brakes dragging as you turn it ? I am wondering if your caliper is siezing up ...shouldn't be being fairley new ..what colour is your disc/rotor ..is it blued from heat ?is it super shiney looking ? ..if you do have to tear down the caliper the rubber o ring kit to reassemble it is cheap I am looking at a kit with new pistons and the rubbers sitting on my desk right now ..I think they were about 30$ but don't quote me on that ....
If you brought this bike to me I would be tearing down the caliper and inspecting all the pistons ..reassembleing with new rubbers and pistons (if needed ) and then flushing out the old brake fluid and bleed the system ..you should have a "feel "to the pedal and yours sounds like it is on/off ...I am wondering if as you bought this bike used if the former owner put a set of hard or "racing" pads in there ..I would also replace the pads with softer ones ,,,,,
Damn you know your stuff... your obviously an indy.....where you located I can use an indy in my neck of the woods for occassional services im not comfortable with?
Since roadhog's problem is fixed, may I switch the topic a bit to brake pedal position and non-HD rear brake levers?
I don't like having to move my foot so much to get to the brake pedal on my 09 SG, w/ stock lever and non-ABS. Currently, pedal is about "3.5 off floorboard. I'd like it be a close as possible while still being able to stomp it to the end of its firm travel. Looking at the schematics in the HD manual, I do not see any adjustment for pedal position. Ideas?
Also, I intend to replace the lever and shifter (only use toe shifter) with new shiny and light-weight models. Do after market levers position the brake foot pad differently?
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