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What effect does changing the spark plug gap have?

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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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Default What effect does changing the spark plug gap have?

I gapped my plugs at .40 (split the difference from the manuals suggestions of .38 - .43) but I was wondering what the effect is if I would gap at .38 or the other end at .43?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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A tighter gap is typically used in a higher compression motor, I think the tighter gap makes a smaller but more powerful spark to resist flame out, or whatever the tech term is. I would say experiment with it, try the .043 and .038, see if you feel any difference, either way you're not going to hurt anything. I've been messing with indexing, side gapping, and colder heat ranges, My opinion the side gap does feel like it makes a stronger running motor, but it does shorten the life of the plugs. I've always been an advocate of indexing, it positions the ground strap so it doesn't shield the spark from the air/fuel charge.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
A tighter gap is typically used in a higher compression motor, I think the tighter gap makes a smaller but more powerful spark to resist flame out, or whatever the tech term is. I would say experiment with it, try the .043 and .038, see if you feel any difference, either way you're not going to hurt anything. I've been messing with indexing, side gapping, and colder heat ranges, My opinion the side gap does feel like it makes a stronger running motor, but it does shorten the life of the plugs. I've always been an advocate of indexing, it positions the ground strap so it doesn't shield the spark from the air/fuel charge.

When indexing, how can you tell where the fuel comes into the cylinder so you know which way to point the plug?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:53 AM
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Before installing plug put a mark on the ceramic part of the plug showing where the open end of the plug is, meaning the opposite of the ground strap. Then you may need some indexing washers that come in different thicknesses. Screw in the spark plug all the way and look at where the mark is. You want to line it up to the opening of the intake manifold on each side. Once you can get the mark lined up with the opening, your good to go.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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Default Spark plug gap

Have heard of people gapping at .035 instead of recommended .038-.043 (.040) supposedly to reduce pinging?? Does that seem right??
Most mechanics gap to lesser number to make plug last longer as it wears. If you change plugs often (they ARE pretty cheap) no problem.
Experts- what do you say??????

Postman
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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Consider that index washers have the effect of slightly increasing the chamber size thus lowering the compression ration very slightly.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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My indexing method:
1. Draw a line on the plug insulator, in line with the ground strap
2. Dry run the plugs to minimum torque value and note the position
3. Add required thickness copper washer to rotate the open gap facing the intake valve
The alignment doesn't need to be perfect but thats what I always shoot for. If you need just a little more rotation, try the upper limit torque value, if you still need a little more, loosen and retighten, you will gain a little. Sometimes you can get lucky by swapping plugs around and playing with the torque and retightening, and don't need any shims. The indexed plug provides optimum spark exposure to the incomming AF charge to promote faster, stronger flame propogation, and the incomming AF charge helps keep the plug gap cleaner for longer. The only problem I experienced was finding 12mm copper shims, I ended up getting some close to what I needed and then drilling them out with a custom fixture. I think there are some kits on the market but they are relatively expensive for what you get. Possibly more research would yeild some shims that would work, but McMaster Carr and Maryland Metric didn't have them.

jjnoble, with my method, on the rear cylinder, align the mark between 4-5 'oclock as viewed from the side, and the front cylinder align between 7-8 'oclock, that'll get the gaps pointed about right at the valve stem, dead center.

A lot of people call this snake oil but I gaurantee if you index plugs in a 6 or 8 cylinder vehicle, you will feel the power increase, you may not feel it on a 2 cyl motorcycle but I'm sure it helps a little.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
My indexing method:
. The only problem I experienced was finding 12mm copper shims, I ended up getting some close to what I needed and then drilling them out with a custom fixture. I think there are some kits on the market but they are relatively expensive for what you get. Possibly more research would yeild some shims that would work, but McMaster Carr and Maryland Metric didn't have them.

.
I got them here:
http://youroilshop.com/plugs.htm
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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I don't think you would notice a difference, if it mattered, they would tell you .040, no more, no less.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jags93
Consider that index washers have the effect of slightly increasing the chamber size thus lowering the compression ration very slightly.
Negligible, would not even consider the impact on CR when indexing. I haven't done the volume math, but raising the plug .010-.030" is not going to upset the perfectly balaned tune in your motor. Off hand I would say max possible shimming, roughly 3/4 turn, would still be less than 0.1cc, you'll get more volume difference than that from the front and rear cylinder heating and expanding at different rates, if it was that big a concern builders would cc the combustion chambers with indexed plugs. If someone else machined and built your motor, chances are you already have a greater variation in CR between the two cylinders, than you will from indexing.
 
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