I brought my bike in to find a noise that I couldn't identify. Turns out one of the inner cam bearings failed, scarred the cam bearing surface, and left metal shavings inside the cam case. While the mechanic had cam case open he checked runout on the crank, think it was .08 and I could see wear on one side of the bearing surface with none on the other side, so there was definitely a little bit of wobble to it. Mechanic recommended new crank, flywheel assembly as well as new cams and all new bearings. Today he is taking the rest of the motor apart to see how far the metal shavings might have gone, recommended flushing out the oil pan. Since my motor will be mostly apart now, what would be some thoughts on what to do when putting it all back together? I know I should have a trued, welded crank and timkin bearings installed, anything else? Can my stock crank be trued and welded as a fix? Do I really need to have a new crank, flywheel assembly ordered? Mechanic says bike is going to be down a couple of weeks due to ordering parts. Had plans of leaving for Laconia this Saturday, so much for those. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you...

 

I'm positive your mechanic will tell you that he knows WTF he's doing...
BUT...
If you want a bulletproof crank...
Send your case with crank still intact to these guys.
They'll repair your crank, true it, balance it, pin it, weld it.
Then they'll reassemble it back into your case.

Trust me, and many others on this forum...there's nobody better in the business.
Give these guys a call.
http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/

 

+ 1 for Darkhorse. When my bike was apart to do the top end, the runout on the crank was 003. I'm keeping an eye on it. If and when it needs bottom end work, the complete bottom end will be shipped to DH. I'll get done what ever they recommend.

 

As suggested above...send you lower cases and crank to DH for rebuild. You might even want to have them check the connecting rods and possibly replace them while they have the crank apart.

Good luck!

 

But,,, if it's under warranty (haven't said) would they let Darkhorse do that??

 

Even if it's still under some kind of warranty, I would bite the bullet and have it sent out to DH for re-work. And like everybody else is saying, send them the whole bottom end for them to do (crank work and timken bearings). You won't regret it.

 

Not under warranty, 07 with 40k. Would it still need to trued, welded and plugged (as DH would do) if I replace the HD crank assembly with an S&S one?

 

Buy a 120R, you won't have much more if any in that set-up. I know Mason City HD, Iowa not IL, has 2 in stock, including the 58mm TB that's been on BO for over a month. You'll also need a SE compensator, but you should have that even if you rebuild yours. The parts mgr is Todd,ask for him & tell him Doug Jaden said to call him, he might be able to give you a discount if you buy the whole package from them. Add up the price of rebuilding yours & compare, plus all you'll have to do is drop it in & get it tuned & you're ready to go. If you've already done a BB, & heads it might be more difference in price, but how much are you going to trust all the motor parts after all the shavings have circulated through everything? this way you'd have a complete fresh, clean motor, that or sell me your bike on the cheap & I'll do it.

 

Along with fixing the pieces that were messed up from the shavings floating around the engine, I was thinking of going with an S&S crank/flywheel set up, new pistons and the cylinder bored 5 over, head work, new gear driven cams (with better bearings this time), a little bigger than the 255's that came with 103 kit (mechanic suggested redshift 577's) and a tuner since I currently don't have one. Have been using Nightriders XID's. Only downside I see at the moment is that I missed my trip to NH for Laconia bike week, and now bike is going to be down for at least a couple of weeks....

 

What does a 120 cost? I'm looking at probably about 4-5 grand now to do as posted above...