Tour Pack Relocation
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: fort worth
Ordered my tour pack relocator and got it in 3 days, before check was ever sent. 15min installation and does the trick, moved it back to furthest postion and what a diference it makes for the passanger...great guy to work with!!
kudos to George!!
kudos to George!!
George _ USA
If it makes a difference.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44,789
Likes: 29,723
From: PNW
Or you can just make your own. I picked up steel flat bar (3/8ths x 2 I think) from Home Depot along with some stainless flat screws, nyloc nuts, and washers. It took me about an hour and it works perfectly. Solid as can be. Cost - around 10 bucks.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
From: Nashville TN
I would like some more info on your setup?
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 3
From: Open Road, USA
Installed my GA relocator today! It was a breeze and now I think Momma will be a lot happier, especially on hot days. George is great to deal with. I bought my relocator from a member on here and ordered a bolt kit with directions from George, he shipped them out and I actually got them quicker than I did the relocator. Am extremely pleased and the added bonus is it's made in America...
Joe
Joe
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44,789
Likes: 29,723
From: PNW
Honestly, it couldn't be more simple. My bike is in storage so I can't be 100% accurate in my dimensions, but it's pretty easy to figure out. Get a 30 inch piece of flat bar that is 2 inches wide and about 3/8ths thick or whatever the thickest stock your hardware store carries. Also get 4 - 1/4-20 x 3/4 stainless hex bolts, 4 - 1/4-20 x 3/4 ss flat screws, 8 ss 1/4 inch washers, and 8 1/4-20 ss nyloc nuts.
Remove the tour pack hardware and once loose, flop it forward and lay it on the seat - be careful not to stretch the wiring too much. Cut the flat stock so that it will overlap the original mounting holes in the rack and then add whatever you feel you want to add to move the pack rearward - I cant say for sure but I think mine are 13 inches. I did 2 1/2 inches overhang because if you move it too much, your pillion will slide off the back of the seat or have to lean too far back, which is uncomfortable. Lay the two pieces of cut flat stock on the rack making sure to measure for square and parallel, then mark the holes from underneath using the rack holes.
Drill 5/16th holes (gives extra room for error) at the 4 spots you marked. Chamfer one side of each hole so that the flat screws lay flush. The flat screws set in from the top. Use a washer on the bottom of each screw and against the rack and then tighten the nuts on. At this point you should have the factory rack with two parallel pieces of flat stock firmly bolted to it and about 2 1/2 inches of overhang towards the back.
Place the Tour Pack on the rack and slide it to the desired position - 1 to 2 inches rearward (or more if you really want, but you will need to use longer pieces of flat stock). Make sure it is even and mark the flat stock using the factory holes in the tour pack.
Flop the tour pack forward again and drill the 4 - 5/16ths holes in the flat stock that you marked.
Put the tourpack back on and using the remaining hex bolts and hardware, bolt it down. Check for proper alignment and stability. Once it's where you want it and all looks good, take it all apart, file the rough corners of the flat stock, wipe it down with acetone, prime and paint. I use Rustoleum "hammer finish" because it looks decent and holds up well - not that you'll ever see it anyway. I put a wide piece of high density foam to absorb vibration between the flat stock and the tour pack. I also installed nylon washers between the flat stock and the oem rack. Maybe overkill but it has been flawless for over 10k miles.
The end result is a very stable low mount adapter that is adjustable as you care to make it. It sounds like a long process, but it really took me very little time to do it. There is no flex at all and comfort for the passenger is greatly enhanced.
Pocket the $165 bucks you saved for something harder to make in your garage like highway pegs or a nice windshield.
Remove the tour pack hardware and once loose, flop it forward and lay it on the seat - be careful not to stretch the wiring too much. Cut the flat stock so that it will overlap the original mounting holes in the rack and then add whatever you feel you want to add to move the pack rearward - I cant say for sure but I think mine are 13 inches. I did 2 1/2 inches overhang because if you move it too much, your pillion will slide off the back of the seat or have to lean too far back, which is uncomfortable. Lay the two pieces of cut flat stock on the rack making sure to measure for square and parallel, then mark the holes from underneath using the rack holes.
Drill 5/16th holes (gives extra room for error) at the 4 spots you marked. Chamfer one side of each hole so that the flat screws lay flush. The flat screws set in from the top. Use a washer on the bottom of each screw and against the rack and then tighten the nuts on. At this point you should have the factory rack with two parallel pieces of flat stock firmly bolted to it and about 2 1/2 inches of overhang towards the back.
Place the Tour Pack on the rack and slide it to the desired position - 1 to 2 inches rearward (or more if you really want, but you will need to use longer pieces of flat stock). Make sure it is even and mark the flat stock using the factory holes in the tour pack.
Flop the tour pack forward again and drill the 4 - 5/16ths holes in the flat stock that you marked.
Put the tourpack back on and using the remaining hex bolts and hardware, bolt it down. Check for proper alignment and stability. Once it's where you want it and all looks good, take it all apart, file the rough corners of the flat stock, wipe it down with acetone, prime and paint. I use Rustoleum "hammer finish" because it looks decent and holds up well - not that you'll ever see it anyway. I put a wide piece of high density foam to absorb vibration between the flat stock and the tour pack. I also installed nylon washers between the flat stock and the oem rack. Maybe overkill but it has been flawless for over 10k miles.
The end result is a very stable low mount adapter that is adjustable as you care to make it. It sounds like a long process, but it really took me very little time to do it. There is no flex at all and comfort for the passenger is greatly enhanced.
Pocket the $165 bucks you saved for something harder to make in your garage like highway pegs or a nice windshield.
Last edited by nevada72; Jan 29, 2012 at 10:37 PM.
I put the Kuryakyn one on last year you can move it forwad 2" or back 4" and anywhere inbetween by just lossening 4 wing nuts, only thing is I found out that with it all the way back with 2 up and the tour pack loaded it seemed to throw the balance of the bike off, seemed a little light up frount moved it about 2" back from stock and seemed to fix it
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
From: Nashville TN
Honestly, it couldn't be more simple. My bike is in storage so I can't be 100% accurate in my dimensions, but it's pretty easy to figure out. Get a 30 inch piece of flat bar that is 2 inches wide and about 3/8ths thick or whatever the thickest stock your hardware store carries. Also get 4 - 1/4-20 x 3/4 stainless hex bolts, 4 - 1/4-20 x 3/4 ss flat screws, 8 ss 1/4 inch washers, and 8 1/4-20 ss nyloc nuts.
Remove the tour pack hardware and once loose, flop it forward and lay it on the seat - be careful not to stretch the wiring too much. Cut the flat stock so that it will overlap the original mounting holes in the rack and then add whatever you feel you want to add to move the pack rearward - I cant say for sure but I think mine are 13 inches. I did 2 1/2 inches overhang because if you move it too much, your pillion will slide off the back of the seat or have to lean too far back, which is uncomfortable. Lay the two pieces of cut flat stock on the rack making sure to measure for square and parallel, then mark the holes from underneath using the rack holes.
Drill 5/16th holes (gives extra room for error) at the 4 spots you marked. Chamfer one side of each hole so that the flat screws lay flush. The flat screws set in from the top. Use a washer on the bottom of each screw and against the rack and then tighten the nuts on. At this point you should have the factory rack with two parallel pieces of flat stock firmly bolted to it and about 2 1/2 inches of overhang towards the back.
Place the Tour Pack on the rack and slide it to the desired position - 1 to 2 inches rearward (or more if you really want, but you will need to use longer pieces of flat stock). Make sure it is even and mark the flat stock using the factory holes in the tour pack.
Flop the tour pack forward again and drill the 4 - 5/16ths holes in the flat stock that you marked.
Put the tourpack back on and using the remaining hex bolts and hardware, bolt it down. Check for proper alignment and stability. Once it's where you want it and all looks good, take it all apart, file the rough corners of the flat stock, wipe it down with acetone, prime and paint. I use Rustoleum "hammer finish" because it looks decent and holds up well - not that you'll ever see it anyway. I put a wide piece of high density foam to absorb vibration between the flat stock and the tour pack. I also installed nylon washers between the flat stock and the oem rack. Maybe overkill but it has been flawless for over 10k miles.
The end result is a very stable low mount adapter that is adjustable as you care to make it. It sounds like a long process, but it really took me very little time to do it. There is no flex at all and comfort for the passenger is greatly enhanced.
Pocket the $165 bucks you saved for something harder to make in your garage like highway pegs or a nice windshield.
Remove the tour pack hardware and once loose, flop it forward and lay it on the seat - be careful not to stretch the wiring too much. Cut the flat stock so that it will overlap the original mounting holes in the rack and then add whatever you feel you want to add to move the pack rearward - I cant say for sure but I think mine are 13 inches. I did 2 1/2 inches overhang because if you move it too much, your pillion will slide off the back of the seat or have to lean too far back, which is uncomfortable. Lay the two pieces of cut flat stock on the rack making sure to measure for square and parallel, then mark the holes from underneath using the rack holes.
Drill 5/16th holes (gives extra room for error) at the 4 spots you marked. Chamfer one side of each hole so that the flat screws lay flush. The flat screws set in from the top. Use a washer on the bottom of each screw and against the rack and then tighten the nuts on. At this point you should have the factory rack with two parallel pieces of flat stock firmly bolted to it and about 2 1/2 inches of overhang towards the back.
Place the Tour Pack on the rack and slide it to the desired position - 1 to 2 inches rearward (or more if you really want, but you will need to use longer pieces of flat stock). Make sure it is even and mark the flat stock using the factory holes in the tour pack.
Flop the tour pack forward again and drill the 4 - 5/16ths holes in the flat stock that you marked.
Put the tourpack back on and using the remaining hex bolts and hardware, bolt it down. Check for proper alignment and stability. Once it's where you want it and all looks good, take it all apart, file the rough corners of the flat stock, wipe it down with acetone, prime and paint. I use Rustoleum "hammer finish" because it looks decent and holds up well - not that you'll ever see it anyway. I put a wide piece of high density foam to absorb vibration between the flat stock and the tour pack. I also installed nylon washers between the flat stock and the oem rack. Maybe overkill but it has been flawless for over 10k miles.
The end result is a very stable low mount adapter that is adjustable as you care to make it. It sounds like a long process, but it really took me very little time to do it. There is no flex at all and comfort for the passenger is greatly enhanced.
Pocket the $165 bucks you saved for something harder to make in your garage like highway pegs or a nice windshield.
Thank you for that info.....!!!
later
John
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