2009 ultra 50K

I replaced front brakes without removing the tires. I heard I can do the same with the rear.

But everytime I try, I cant get the caliper off. Close.. but just a bit too tight to pull it out.

Advice?

 

if you can get your hands in there you do not have to pull the caliper off at all, just get a thin drywall taping knife or equal inbetween the rotor & the old pad to compress the pistons, pull the smallest two 10 point bolts and the pads come right off. Stuck the new ones in, line up the holes and replace the bolts.

 

Just took off the wheel to have a new tire put on. You have to twist and pull on the caliper a little to compress the brake pads in a bit.

Here's the instruction for removing the wheel. Should help, worked for me.


REAR WHEEL REMOVAL
Remove saddlebags.
Place motorcycle on center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground.
Inspect wheel bearings.
Remove left side muffler.
On models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX), remove left side lower saddlebag support rail.
ABS equipped: Cut cable strap to release rear wheel speed sensor cable from rear brake hose.
Remove rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose. Set brake caliper on passenger footboard.
NOTE: Do not operate the rear brake pedal with the caliper removed or the caliper pistons may be forced out. Reseating pistons requires disassembly of the caliper.
Remove E-clip (1) from groove at end of axle.
Hold weld nut on left side and loosen cone nut using AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER (Part No. HD-47925).
Remove cone nut and adjuster cam from axle.
Rotate weld nut on opposite side of axle in a counterclockwise direction until wheel is loose.
NOTE: If ABS equipped, never pull wheel speed sensor cable taut or use to retain wheel, axle or other components. Always keep wheel speed sensor (and ABS encoder bearing) away from magnetic fields (such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc.) or damage will occur.
Using a soft mallet, gently tap end of axle towards left side of motorcycle. Catching external spacer(s), pull axle free of rear fork, caliper bracket, rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), and wheel hub.
Remove caliper bracket from anchor weldment on rear fork.
Move wheel forward and slip belt off compensator sprocket.
NOTE: Hold compensator sprocket while removing rear wheel. Compensator sprocket may drop from wheel if isolators are excessively worn.
If necessary, remove brake disc from hub. If wheel is to be assembled with the same disc, mark both the wheel and disc, so that it can be installed in its original position.

INSTALLATION

If removed, install brake disc using five new screws. Alternately tighten screws to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm). Always install brake disc in its original position.
Verify that compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in bowl area of wheel.
Place wheel in rear fork. Install belt over compensator sprocket and slide the wheel back. Never bend belt forward into a loop smaller than the drive sprocket diameter. Never bend belt into a reverse loop. Over bending can damage belt resulting in premature failure, which could cause loss of control and death or serious injury.
Seat caliper bracket on anchor weldment of rear fork.
Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant to axle, bearing bores and bore of spacer sleeve.
Slide axle through left side of rear swingarm, external spacer (thin), and rear wheel compensator sprocket into wheel hub.
NOTE: Be sure that grooves on external spacer, or index pin on rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side.
Push axle through rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) or external spacer (thick), caliper bracket, and right side of rear fork.
Rotate axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. With the cam forward, install adjuster cam on end of axle.
Apply a thin film of anti-seize lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with threads. Install cone nut on axle. Finger tighten only.
If ABS equipped, route sensor cable forward and outboard of caliper bracket. Continue forward following top of rear fork. Rotate rear wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until index pin makes contact with caliper bracket
Tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs
Install brake caliper and tighten screws to 43-48 ft-lbs
Secure rear wheel speed sensor cable to brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. in front of the brake hose crimp.
Adjust drive belt using BELT TENSION GAUGE and torque axle to 95-105 ft. lbs.
Install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on right side of axle.
On models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX), install left side lower saddlebag support rail.
Install left muffler.

 

I will try it with the caliper on as the first post recommends. If I cant do that, I will remove the tire. I really appreciate the input.. Thanks Gents.

 

Don't remove the tire/wheel even if you can't do as "harleydavidone" stated above. If you can just get one pad to drop then you have room to lift & roll the caliper out then compress the pistons for the new pads, place caliper back on the bike then slide the new pads up in the caliper, but I would guess you could compress the pistons enough for the new pads while on the bike.

 

I just took my caliper off my 09 this weekend, was really a no pain, came right off ordeal....and my first time brake changing on my bike,, hmmm I think I was sliding it up and pulling out to get it out.

 

I pull the pin that goes through the pads and push the inside pad down and out. I remove the bolts holding the caliper to the frame and the caliper will roll right over the rotor. Remove other pad, spray pistons and area around them with brake cleaner, squeeze pistons back into caliper, install new pads and roll the caliper back over the rotor. There's plenty of space with the pistons retracted. Easy.

 

if the rear has been lowered it makes it a little more difficult. i compress the pads and pull the pins. kinda tight but can be done. steve

 

if you compress the pistons...make sure to open the bleed fitting so fluid can escape.

 

Appreciate all the advice.

I went ahead and changed the brake pads with the tire still mounted. Everything was 10 times easier then I expected.

Still had some pad left after 23k. Not bad.

Again.. thx for all the info.